Oil Pan fitment

[Reds34]

Guys,

I have a question regarding fitment of oil pans on different blocks. I have a '37 block engine that has what appears to be a '34 oil pan. I am looking to put an oil filter on the engine and would like to send the return oil to the pan. If I locate another '35-48 pan, it should fit on the engine without issue, correct? I would have to crawl under the truck, but I don't think I should have an issue with fitment into the truck. Is it an issue that the block vent on the bottom passenger side of the block is covered with the '34 pan?

Now, if I switch pans, do I also need to switch oil pumps? I'm assuming (we all know what that does) that you need to use a '32-'34 pump with a '32-'34 pan and the newer pumps with the newer pans?

Thanks for all the help.

Red

[38 coupe]

I am surprised to hear of a poured main engine oil pan on an insert main engine. The front main bearing cap got wider when Ford switched from poured Babbitt main bearings to insert main bearings. The front bottom of the oil pan got wider to clear the wider main bearing. I have not tried putting an earlier oil pan on an insert bearing engine, I assumed (risky, I know) that the poured main engine oil pan would not fit onto an insert main engine.
Lack of breather is not a good thing. Ford added crankcase ventilation for a reason, to vent off the vapors that otherwise contaminate the engine oil.
Many of the early pans have had the baffle cut out of them over the years to clear later oil pumps. I would wait to see what pump is in the engine before making plans about your oil pump.
Depending on your vehicle, and any chassis modifications done, you may have to pull the engine to remove the oil pan. Sometimes you can take the fuel pump stand off, take off the radiator hoses, remove the bolts from the front motor mounts, and lift the engine up high enough to clear the pan from the frame. It really is a chassis specific thing, just because someone got their oil pan off of a flathead V8 working on a different year car doesn't necessarily mean it will work the same for you. Let us know what vehicle you are working on and maybe someone on here will know for your specific combination.

[Reds34]

Thank you for the response. The engine is going in a '34 BB platform dump. I assuming (here we go again) that the '34 oil pan shouldn't be an issue because it's a '34. I am curous how they managed to get the pan to fit. I'm going to pull the pan off to see what it has for an oil pump. I finally got the pan broken loose after having to hammer a putty knife all the way around to break to seal of silicone the installer put on.

Red

[38 coupe]

I think any 32-48 oil pan would fit, but I could be wrong.
Any evidence of the oil pan being "massaged" with a hammer to clear the front main bearing cap? I'm curious what you find.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Reds34

Guys,

I have a question regarding fitment of oil pans on different blocks. I have a '37 block engine that has what appears to be a '34 oil pan. I am looking to put an oil filter on the engine and would like to send the return oil to the pan. If I locate another '35-48 pan, it should fit on the engine without issue, correct? I would have to crawl under the truck, but I don't think I should have an issue with fitment into the truck. Is it an issue that the block vent on the bottom passenger side of the block is covered with the '34 pan?

Now, if I switch pans, do I also need to switch oil pumps? I'm assuming (we all know what that does) that you need to use a '32-'34 pump with a '32-'34 pan and the newer pumps with the newer pans?

Thanks for all the help.

Red

Hi ya Red.
If I understand correctly, the pan currently in place is working for you other than there is no return for an oil filter line. Am I correct?
If I am correct, then I'd suggest you keep it simple. The later dipstick boss (1942 - 1948) has a threaded port designed just for the return line. These are (dipstick boss) reproduced.
Why not simply replace the dipstick boss and be done with it? No worries about a different pan fitting, no worries about the oil pump.

You can install the new boss with small carriage head screws if you want the original appearance of rivet heads. On the inside of the pan, use split type lock washers and stake the nuts.

[Reds34]

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Kube,

You are correct. It appears that the diptick tube boss on the '34 pan is a bit of a different size than the newer boss that I have with a filter return fitting. I haven't actually measured either of the bosses to see if they actually line up.

Red

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Reds34

Kube,

You are correct. It appears that the diptick tube boss on the '34 pan is a bit of a different size than the newer boss that I have with a filter return fitting. I haven't actually measured either of the bosses to see if they actually line up.

Red

That occurred to me. If I recall the later boss is a bit greater in height. I wonder if that would be an easy modification to your pan.

[Reds34]

For those of you following along, I took the pan off to see what was going on inside. I am NOT impressed by the work of the rebuilder. I have no idea if they did the butcher job on the pickup, or if it was like that before they even worked on it. I did have to hammer a putty knife in between the pan and block all the way around because they siliconed the gasket on. I found a new (used) pickup with screen that I am going to install on the pump. I have also located another oil pan that is correct for the block. To add to the issues, there is a broken oil pan bolt in the block. I'm very disappointed with the work that was done on this block. It looks like I also need to helicoil one of the block drains as well.

Red

[kiwi nz]

Yikes!!
I am about to delve into a supposedly good engine, I hope that I do not find any thing like that.
If it were me I would be having a good look at the rest of the engine.
I am unsure of what i can see but has the previous builder builder plugged the oil return hole in the rear main bearing?

[Reds34]

Kiwi,

I don't think so. It looks like the pipe is just missing, but I will take another look at it.

Red

[ThirstyThirty]

Originally Posted by Reds34

For those of you following along, I took the pan off to see what was going on inside. I am NOT impressed by the work of the rebuilder. I have no idea if they did the butcher job on the pickup, or if it was like that before they even worked on it. I did have to hammer a putty knife in between the pan and block all the way around because they siliconed the gasket on. I found a new (used) pickup with screen that I am going to install on the pump. I have also located another oil pan that is correct for the block. To add to the issues, there is a broken oil pan bolt in the block. I'm very disappointed with the work that was done on this block. It looks like I also need to helicoil one of the block drains as well.

Red

all things aside, if those are metal shavings in bottom of the pan... i fully understand your displeasure! appears to me, good thing you decided to check the internals!

[aussie merc]

well here's my 2 cents worth why not just fit a hydraulic bulkhead fitting to the sump and plumb your return line to that. As your sump already fits your chassis/engine combination. You get to pick the location that best suits your application and the thread/ fitting size thats suits it best remembering that the factory return is only about 3/16 id anyway have done similar in different situations just put the fitting nut on the outside and silver solder the fitting to the inside of the sump for a good leakproof seal. Just make sure the hole is above the high oil mark [will drain better and less chance of a leak if not submerged ]

[Reds34]

Aussie Merc,

I plan on changing the pan out and switching out the dipstick adapter for a new one that has a hole for a return line.

Red