3D Printed Ford Battery Case Help

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

When I built mine, I used an original Repop Ford LF battery. After neutralizing the acid with baking soda, I set it in the sun to melt the tar top, then scraped out the tar with a screwdriver to save for reassembly. The 3 individual script lead connectors were salvaged, as were the filler caps. The remnants of the top was removed, the internals gutted, and the bottom cut out. The new top was made from 1/16" ABS, with the 3 cells of 3/16' ABS welded on with ABS solvent. Holes to match the Optima were cut, lead connectors secured in place, the new top secured permanently in place with epoxy, with the salvaged tar reapplied. The new Optima gets it's hold down tabs trimmed and goes into the faux case from the bottom, the posts exit on top as original. Appearance is perfect, no Concourse Judge able to detect any difference from original.

A newer version of the Optima required smaller post holes in the top, which was accomplished by masking the larger holes with red and green felt acid neutralizer washers. If making one today, the post holes can be correctly sized, negating the need for the red and green acid washers.

The newest version of the Optima now requires a case 3/8' taller than a Ford LF. A simple 3/8' thick platform supports the faux battery, while the Optima projects down inside a hole in the platform. No such need for this platform with a Ford HF battery, as it fits the new Optima without additional heightening.

I cannot supply pictures of my converted battery as sadly, I have sold my Ford, and the Ford LF battery went with it.

I hope to basically design the final product around the optimum versus the other way around. So that's why what I'm building right now is modular so it can be adjusted for the optima once I get one. I want to try and get it as close to a perfect fit as possible. I'm going to explore different methods of putting it in with and without the feet and see how that compares. If it turns out it needs to be about 3/8" taller than the original, then I'm okay with that.

[WarbirdPhotog]

New update... so with the Optima Red top measurements that Kens36 posted, I created the battery in 3D. This way I can 'digitally' put the cover, case, and tray on the battery to make sure it fits.


Next, I loaded it up into the cover I designed and turned it to a diagonal angle to match the original holes. With no Red Top reference before this and just going off photos, I got it pretty close!



After moving the terminal holes and making them smaller so only the minimalist gap will be in there (but with some room to wiggle, just in case, here's how it looks. BUT, I noticed that there are two spots where the top red part of the battery does come through. So I might have to elongate slightly the case to fit.



Flipping the whole thing over, we can see how the foot tabs will play a part in this. The red circles show where the foot tab on one side overlaps (red circles). Now, I have the top cover pretty thick, so I can dramatically reduce the thickness. If I were to do that, then the only thing I'd need to 'fudge' from the original size is slightly stretching it to be a little wider. That would solve the overlap we saw on the top and what you can see here (yellow circle). That would also solve the other side of the foot tabs. That would then allow the case to be slipped over the battery without removing the foot tabs.



I'm going to play with the rotation of the battery because I might be able to make things even better and only need to modify the thickness and move the terminal hole locations without elongating the case. But I'm pretty set on making this thing fit without shaving off the foot tabs. I have a busy few weeks coming up, so I'll probably only be able to continue this here and there, but I'll update when I do!

[ford38v8]

There seems to be a basic that you aren’t grasping. The foot tabs serve no purpose here, and are easily removed, but you place an unrealistic value on keeping them over the importance of producing a case that externally matches the original. The external dimensions are important in order to fit correctly into every battery location in every Ford that uses that battery. There is also the matter of the expert observer, able to spot an imposter on sight. I’m sorry to be a wet blanket, but I’ll remind you that Fit and Finish are paramount in judging on the V8 Club Concourse, and we haven’t even addressed the difference in finish of a printed case as opposed to a molded case.

[38 coupe]

Your section view shows clearance between the optima and the case on each side opposite of where the round section is poking through. I suggest rotating the Optima inside the case so that all the curved sections fit inside the existing batter box, cutting off the feet, and relocating the holes in the top for the posts to stick through. Battery case size is probably much more noticable than fudging the host locations (may want to move / tweek the cell connection straps to match).

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

There seems to be a basic that you aren’t grasping. The foot tabs serve no purpose here, and are easily removed, but you place an unrealistic value on keeping them over the importance of producing a case that externally matches the original. The external dimensions are important in order to fit correctly into every battery location in every Ford that uses that battery. There is also the matter of the expert observer, able to spot an imposter on sight. I’m sorry to be a wet blanket, but I’ll remind you that Fit and Finish are paramount in judging on the V8 Club Concourse, and we haven’t even addressed the difference in finish of a printed case as opposed to a molded case.

1) I never stated I was going for concourse. That's not my intention here. Based on the photos I've seen of all the other covers for batteries compared to photos of original batteries, I can say that I've yet to see an actual cover that meets that perfect replication. Each have flaws in their own ways. While I am trying to go for as close as possible to an original, keep in mind I do not have an original. With no one currently offering these covers for sale anymore, I have taken it upon myself to do this for my own Fordor.

2) I already have ideas on the finish that I haven't stated because I haven't gotten to that point yet. It involves actually spraying the cover with a thin layer of rubberized type paint. That'll give it a bit more of that original look.

3) I'm not appreciative of your condescending tone, I do actually grasp the idea of those feet tabs. I was unaware they were easy to remove, however. I have yet to see anybody say the tabs are easily removable, and in fact I've seen quite the opposite on the Jeep forums saying it takes a bit of time to remove them. So, my thought process was to make a case that's very easy for everybody to put the optima in with minimal work. Especially having the ability to replace the optima easily.

[tubman]

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"Warbird" - I for one appreciate your efforts. Given the fact that these cases are not available at all any more underscores the difficulty of even producing them, much less making them "Concours". The last case (not including the top) I bought cost more than a complete real battery would, which is also a good indication of the difficulty of the task.

The successful completion of your project will benefit everyone.

[34fordy]

Though unlikely, I would assume that if the tabs are removed any warranty on the Optima battery would not be honored.

[WarbirdPhotog]

Update! Went to the EarlyFordParts store today and they are letting me borrow their original 1940 battery to use for measurements! I'm going to photograph the heck out of this things, measure everything, and get that star texture exactly replicated. This will be a massive help!

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by WarbirdPhotog

Update! Went to the EarlyFordParts store today and they are letting me borrow their original 1940 battery to use for measurements! I'm going to photograph the heck out of this things, measure everything, and get that star texture exactly replicated. This will be a massive help!

I'm sorry you don't appreciate my observations, I don't mean to be rude in my replies. It would be great if you are able to manufacture a product capable of pleasing everyone, and your acquisition of that Ford HF battery should help in that endeavor.
I've never worked with 3D printers, but have seen what they can do and their shortcomings, so I'm guessing that the surface pattern and details as produced by that machine would leave a lot to be desired. How would you go about creating that surface and detail with a printer?

[fordv8j]

The tabs on the bottom is easily sawed off with hack saw; don't diminish from strength of the battery case, mine would not go in the case with them on there

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

I'm sorry you don't appreciate my observations, I don't mean to be rude in my replies. It would be great if you are able to manufacture a product capable of pleasing everyone, and your acquisition of that Ford HF battery should help in that endeavor.

I've never worked with 3D printers, but have seen what they can do and their shortcomings, so I'm guessing that the surface pattern and details as produced by that machine would leave a lot to be desired. How would you go about creating that surface and detail with a printer?

It depends on the printer, but you can achieve very smooth surfaces and also texture surfaces. In the case of this battery, looking at the original, this star texture seems to be slightly raised. I can easily build that into the 3D model itself so it actually prints the texture. If that's what you're talking about.

[38 coupe]

I have cut the feet off of two Optima batteries to make them fit in a much more generic case. The first optima lasted for 10 years. I'm 4 years into the second optima now.
If you get this worked out I would be interested in a case. I'm not worried about points being deducted from judging, but a Ford script battery would look nice in my 38 coupe.

[40Bud23]

I agree with the group this will help a lot of V8ers!

[1952henry]

I would maybe throw in for a later case, if available. I have a repro case from Drake that were almost given away after he gave up idea of making batteries. I let a clod store some stuff in a building of mine, and he broke it. Going to see if I can put broken pieces back into place with black weatherstrip snot.

[Model51]

Warbird - I did a conversion of an original Ford case to accept an Optima battery. I don't have the skills or ability to do anything with a 3-D printer and I sort of figured out everything the first time so I'd do things a bit differently in the future, so what I did is a bit old school, but it worked for me.

Attached is a multipage pdf version of the article I wrote for our Regional Group newsletter on what I did to make it all work. Hope you can download it and read it. Maybe there is something there that will help you with your project which looks great!

The tabs on the bottom of the Optima are easily removed.

I had to adjust the height of a Type 40 battery and make a few other compromised for originality, but I think it will pass muster. It's waiting to be installed along with the battery tray in my truck restoration. It fits under the floorboard so it's not as visible as one located in the engine compartment.

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by Model51

Warbird - I did a conversion of an original Ford case to accept an Optima battery. I don't have the skills or ability to do anything with a 3-D printer and I sort of figured out everything the first time so I'd do things a bit differently in the future, so what I did is a bit old school, but it worked for me.



Attached is a multipage pdf version of the article I wrote for our Regional Group newsletter on what I did to make it all work. Hope you can download it and read it. Maybe there is something there that will help you with your project which looks great!



The tabs on the bottom of the Optima are easily removed.



I had to adjust the height of a Type 40 battery and make a few other compromised for originality, but I think it will pass muster. It's waiting to be installed along with the battery tray in my truck restoration. It fits under the floorboard so it's not as visible as one located in the engine compartment.

That's a wonderful guide! Great job reworking that earlier battery case! I really appreciate the share. I'm sure some things in there will help.

[slowforty]

Check with a local engineering college, Find a poor student and tell him what you need,

My girfriends grandson makes a few bucks on some of the requests .

[Seth Swoboda]

Warbird, keep working on this project. Perfecting it comes with time. I'm very interested in following this. I hope you keep us updated.

[Karl Wescott]

Warbird, It looks like you are making great progress. Are you doing your 3D work in a parametric model? If so I will remind the others how easy it is in a parametric 3D model to change dimensions... one or two clicks and data entry. If you are able to print one piece... great. If you are printing with a fusion filament process and need to make multiple panels they can be welded using more filament as filler and a plastic weld gun or soldering iron as a heat source.


For those interested in getting a little more in the weeds... Most CAD (computer aided design) model exist as a parametric model where everything is specified as points, lines, curves, etc OR as a triangulated mesh where all the triangles define the surface. The big difference is its easier maintaining precision in a parametric model and easier to visually edit shapes in a mesh model. As to a 3D print, there is FDM, fusion deposit modeling with a filament that melts and is fused to the first layer (think etch-a-sketch married to a hot glue gun), and various schemes that use a resin or a powder with a laser or ultraviolet light to precisely cure a spot and attach to the model. Many of these cannot be welded.


So going from A-Z, we start with a model (I am presuming a parametric one). Then when dimensionally correct we create a mesh image then that goes to the printer where software "slices" the model into individual layers (and may add "support structures", then converts that to the machine code to actually run the printer. What gets interesting is the better the resolution the longer it takes for a print. My guess is at very high resolution each print may take on the order not just days to print, but weeks.


Anyway... looks like a great start. Keep up with it.

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

Warbird, It looks like you are making great progress. Are you doing your 3D work in a parametric model? If so I will remind the others how easy it is in a parametric 3D model to change dimensions... one or two clicks and data entry. If you are able to print one piece... great. If you are printing with a fusion filament process and need to make multiple panels they can be welded using more filament as filler and a plastic weld gun or soldering iron as a heat source.


For those interested in getting a little more in the weeds... Most CAD (computer aided design) model exist as a parametric model where everything is specified as points, lines, curves, etc OR as a triangulated mesh where all the triangles define the surface. The big difference is its easier maintaining precision in a parametric model and easier to visually edit shapes in a mesh model. As to a 3D print, there is FDM, fusion deposit modeling with a filament that melts and is fused to the first layer (think etch-a-sketch married to a hot glue gun), and various schemes that use a resin or a powder with a laser or ultraviolet light to precisely cure a spot and attach to the model. Many of these cannot be welded.


So going from A-Z, we start with a model (I am presuming a parametric one). Then when dimensionally correct we create a mesh image then that goes to the printer where software "slices" the model into individual layers (and may add "support structures", then converts that to the machine code to actually run the printer. What gets interesting is the better the resolution the longer it takes for a print. My guess is at very high resolution each print may take on the order not just days to print, but weeks.


Anyway... looks like a great start. Keep up with it.

Karl,

Great information. This is fascinating to me.