Brake shoes

[Neshkoro]

Years ago, when you bought brake shoes and brake drums, the machine shop or auto parts store would machine the radius of the shoe to the drum so they matched. I saw that process being done many times. Today I have no idea who or where I could have that done. Do you think I could do an ok job to do it myself on a stationary belt sander or large disk sander. Whoever replaced the shoes didn’t have that done. The shoes just make contact on each end of each shoe. So, there’s very little shoe contact when stopping. I was talking to another guy with a Model A and he says he can lock up his wheels to leave skid marks! No way I could do that with my current setup.
My car is a 1930 Model A Ford Tudor with steel drums and bonded shoes.
Thoughts,
Bill

[Fullraceflathead]

That process is called arcing the brake shoes. It is still done today but on larger semi trucks. It's very hard to find a brake shoe arching machine in today's world as they actually outlawed them back when they were using asbestos for brake shoes. Today asbestos is no longer used but the arching machines are few and far between now. Large semi truck repair shops still arc brake shoes. I actually own one Ammco machine. They are around and if you contact a Model A club most likely one of the members has one of those brake shoe arcing machines.
You can also put self adhesive sand paper on the inside of your brake drum and sand your brake shoes until you see a full contact pattern on your brake shoes. Modern brake shoes are not made from asbestos. I would not try this with older unknown brake shoes just to be safe though.

[Keith True]

Bill,you can do it that way.Ideally though,they should be trimmed on the car with a Brake Dokter.That way it deals with any of the other parts that might be a few thousandths off.Tracks,pins,adjusting shafts,etc.People get a little upset when they tell me their A has,'all new brakes',and then I point out they only have new shoes,drums,and springs.Worn out tracks,rollers,pins,and adjusting links are most of their problems.I usually tell people the shoes are the smallest part of the braking system.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by Neshkoro

Years ago, when you bought brake shoes and brake drums, the machine shop or auto parts store would machine the radius of the shoe to the drum so they matched. I saw that process being done many times. Today I have no idea who or where I could have that done. Do you think I could do an ok job to do it myself on a stationary belt sander or large disk sander. Whoever replaced the shoes didn’t have that done. The shoes just make contact on each end of each shoe. So, there’s very little shoe contact when stopping. I was talking to another guy with a Model A and he says he can lock up his wheels to leave skid marks! No way I could do that with my current setup.
My car is a 1930 Model A Ford Tudor with steel drums and bonded shoes.
Thoughts,
Bill

Yes you can! Very easy to do yourself and put a small taper on the end of shoe pads,

[Big hammer]

Bill I would get rid of the steel drums period ! New cast iron drums and new shoes and new springs to start with. It sounds like the steel drums are shot !

[Neshkoro]

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Thanks for the response. I’ll try what’s suggested!

[180 a]

Bill, measure your drums and send me your shoes, I will arch for you.


Ron Kullgren 231- 357-7968

[ThirstyThirty]

twenty years ago, maybe a bit more... there was a 'full service' auto center down the road a spell. not too far away. kinda on the corner of an expanding, growing metropolis...

i went to see them on a referral to get some bonded shoes, old car arched. talked to the son. he was maybe early to mid 40's or so... and he said yes, they could do that. had the machine to do it with. he said his Dad was the one who used the old brake arching machine. Had kept it 'in house' as progress moved in and around them and Dad still was coming to work every day!

I got 2 wheels done, did not get others. did rears, not front. had planned to. sold car. now the shop is little more than 'memories from over there on the corner'... and modern business 'everythings' occupies the land...

[ModelA29]

I've put sandpaper in the drum and worked the shoe back and forth until the entire surface was scuffed. It's still off the thickness of the sandpaper but they wear in quickly.

[nkaminar]

One Model A owner I met had some really good performing brakes. I asked him how he got the brakes to work so well. He told me that he rode the brakes until the shoes fit the drums. If you decide to do that, let the drums cool off between periods of riding the brakes. It must work better with cast iron drums.

[Bob Bidonde]

I use the process shown in the slide. By the way, I tried both molded and woven linings with new cast iron drums. The woven linings give better overall braking performance and their brake dust is almost invisible on light colored wheels.

[dansluck]

I use Blue Chalk from a carpenters chalk line. Chalk is available at any hardware.

[Gufshoz]

I also use carpenters chalk (the refill for a chalk line). The real key is to make certain the drums are true. Dust the inside of the drum with chalk then rotate the shoe against the drum. The high spots are easy to see and just sand them down. Repeat until the high spots are gone. Thoroughly clean off all of the chalk dust before assembly. Super easy and very accurate.

[Neshkoro]

Ron, Thanks for the offer. I appreciate that! Im going totry the disc sander methodfirst. If im still in trouble, Ill get back to you!

[Neshkoro]

I measured both front drums and and they measure 11.050 Diameter on the drivers side and 11.070 Diameter on the passenger side!

[Synchro909]

IMO, grinding or filing the lining reduces the life of your shoes. I use the cheapest rattle can of paint I can find to put a mist of colour inside the drums, fit everything together and spin the wheel while holding the lever to cause drag. Where there is paint on the lining is a high spot. By stretching or shrinking the stiffening web at the back of the shoe, I get close. It is not very long and I have full contact. I can lock all 4 wheels on dry bitumen with steel drums on the back.