Heater in 50 model custom

[Bullerman]

My next project. The heater in my 50 model isn't hooked up. The wire is hanging.it has been converted to 12 v.
I bought a resistor to go from 12 to 6 volts. Can I put the resistor on this wire and go straight to the battery to see if the motor works before I hook it all up to the switch.
The guy added a extra fuse panel under the dash. I should be able to put the fuse between the motor and fuse panel then go from the panel to the switch .
I am terrible on electrical stuff. Starting to get cold.

[Zeke3]

I did exactly what you are suggesting, to add a resistor in the power line to the heater, when I converted a car from 6v to 12v. I don’t remember being concerned with the polarity change. That was a long time ago.

[GB SISSON]

Not a long time ago for me, I did just that yesterday morning. Actually I installed a two speed switch and only ran it on the low setting. I will be watching this thread as the lower speed was a bit anemic and the high speed was like 'blast-off'. Hoping to find a resistor that makes high speed useable. Not sure I like glowing coils under the dash, but what's out there?

[Bullerman]

No luck. I unplugged the heater wire. I connected the resistor to that and went to the positive battery post. It sparked like it was a direct short.
I was just trying to see if the motor runs. What did of resistor did you use. Probably will have to go to somebody that knows what they are doing. Wish I had a 6volt battery to hook up to it.

[tubman]

Do you have a battery charger with a 6 volt setting? I have used that in a pinch.

[Cecil/WV]

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Try it with 12v and see if it will run, just do not leave it on long. that will tell if the motor is good.

[GB SISSON]

Does the fan spin freely?

[Joe B.]

6 volt lantern battery should spin it. The motor and cage are easily removable. I had mine out and apart a year ago. It needed a new feed wire.

[Bullerman]

I need to pull it out like you said and if it spins freely. I can get a 6v lantern battery like you said. I hadn't thought about that.
I think I would actually like to hook it up with a separate off/on switch. Just bypass all the stock wiring. Would that be and idea?

[Joe B.]

The stock setup is a short fused wire from heater sw to to the ignition sw, wire from heater sw to motor, and wire from motor to firewall ground, When I redid mine, I put a small grommeted hole through the firewall (pic) and ran the wire under the dash instead of across the engine compartment and through the main wiring grommet like the stock setup.

[pistonbroke]

I found that polarity matters in heater motors when my brother put the new battery in my 36 dodge backwards. The heater motor made bad noises and didn't blow at all. Every thing els worked for a time. If I was the original poster and was taking the heater out, I would simply buy a 12 volt blower motor that fits the heater. Tim

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by Bullerman

My next project. The heater in my 50 model isn't hooked up. The wire is hanging.it has been converted to 12 v.
I bought a resistor to go from 12 to 6 volts. Can I put the resistor on this wire and go straight to the battery to see if the motor works before I hook it all up to the switch.
The guy added a extra fuse panel under the dash. I should be able to put the fuse between the motor and fuse panel then go from the panel to the switch .
I am terrible on electrical stuff. Starting to get cold.

Can you describe or post a photo of the resistor you plan to use? An ordinary ignition resistor will not work for this kind of duty.

[Bullerman]

Originally Posted by tubman

Do you have a battery charger with a 6 volt setting? I have used that in a pinch.

You just used the 6v battery and hooked it directly to the two wires on the motor. I have to fix the ground wire on the motor. I was going to just take it out. Don't know if I should try and just take the motor or the parts the motor is mounted to. I need to make sure it works or not.

[flatford8]

I’d pull the motor out. It’s just 5-6 screws around it. I’ve found it usually needs a cleaning in the heater box. Then you can work on the blower motor ……..Mark

[Bullerman]

I went ahead and ordered a 12v fan motor from Shoe Box Central. Still going to hook it up separate with it's own switch.
I hope the rest of the system works. All the levers seem to slide back and forth. I am not sure about the heater control valve. I know water was circulating through the heater core. I assure the control valve determines how much water goes through the core for heat.
Don't really know what goes wrong with the heater control valve unless it leaks or is froze up. Looks like the two main parts to go wrong are the motor and the heater control valve.

[flatford8]

Right, the valve controls the flow or shuts it off. As long as your heater core isn’t plugged, you should get heat…….Mark

[Bullerman]

I don't think it is because it was burning us up when it was hot. Can I take the hoses off of it and run water through it to make sure it isn't stopped up.
Guess I could take the return hose off and crank the car and see if it's pushing water through it.

[Bullerman]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I’d pull the motor out. It’s just 5-6 screws around it. I’ve found it usually needs a cleaning in the heater box. Then you can work on the blower motor ……..Mark

The motor will come out taking the 5 or 6 screws out with the squirrel cage blower on it.
Is there a secret to getting those screws out.

[flatford8]

Yes you can run water though with the hoses off. Run the water through in both directions to flush it. If you were getting good heat in the car, I’ll bet it’s not plugged. You have to be a bit of a contortionist to see the screws. It’s a PITA but it’s easier to test/repair the motor and as I said, you can clean out that area of the heater box……..Mark

[Joe B.]

Originally Posted by Bullerman

The motor will come out taking the 5 or 6 screws out with the squirrel cage blower on it.
Is there a secret to getting those screws out.

No they are just small sheet metal screws with a 1/4" hex head IIRC.