Model A rear hub puller

[Marshall V. Daut]

It's missing the nub that goes over the axle threads to protect them from mushrooming out when the screw is tightened.
Marshall

[Mad Mac]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

It's missing the nub that goes over the axle threads to protect them from mushrooming out when the screw is tightened.
Marshall

Thanks Marshall,
What does the "nub" look like? And would I minimise that risk by reversing the axle nut to create a hollow for the nose to fit into?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Mad Mac

Thanks Marshall,
What does the "nub" look like? And would I minimise that risk by reversing the axle nut to create a hollow for the nose to fit into?

Mushrooming the threads is certainly something to guard against, and rather than to use a reversed axle nut (which is castellated) you would be better served to use a conventional nut with that thread.

An issue I've seen with the rear axle and other bolts that have holes for cotter pins is collapse of the bolt around the cotter pin holes when force is applied on the puller, which collapses the threads as well. It's extremely important to use something that engages the threads above and below the cotter pin hole to protect that thin region. Furthermore, if you use a nut then it needs to be screwed onto the axle so that the top of the nut is flush with the end of the axle, and then use something to distribute the force of the puller across both the nut and the axle. I often make force plates out of 3/8" steel with a dimple in the center to center the puller bolt.

Another issue that may relate to what Marshall is talking about is that some aftermarket hubs have the groove in the hub that is narrower than standard, and the part of the puller that fits into this groove won't fit. I've spoken to Steve Mitchell, who manufactures a great hub puller, about this. He told me that he's seen this too, and that sometimes the portion of the puller that goes into the groove needs to be thinned down just a tad to fit.

If you elect to try to find a three-legged brake drum puller, be sure to try it first. Many years ago these things were common, and you could borrow one from your friendly local auto parts store. Nowadays, most of the ones I see will not work on Model A hubs as the arms are too short to go over that long nose.

I use the Mitchell rear hub puller and it's not failed me yet. Likely to be pretty pricey down under unless you find a local vendor who imports them in bulk. And I agree, sometimes heat and penetrating oil are your friends.

[Bruce of MN]

I don't know how valid it is, but I remember some caution about the 3-legged puller possibly distorting the drum. The type that grips the hub itself is more of a straight line pull.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

It's missing the nub that goes over the axle threads to protect them from mushrooming out when the screw is tightened.
Marshall

I have never had one difficult to pop free. But I always tap with a hammer on the thing while tightening the screw down.