Rebuild the rear axle

[joda56]

Got you, "Axle Housing Repair Race", now I found it at Brattons and Snyders!


Probabely on the right side someone didn`t pressed a repair race deep enough, this -in my opinion- would explains the height difference. Right? I will look tomorrow, if the Race is pressed to the very end of the housing or if there is a gap (probabely I`ll find a gap as deep as the height difference). But anyway, in my unprofessional mind, the height difference would make no problem, as long as the gap is not too deep to affect the hub bearing. So I`m good with it (hope you agree)

I don`t have a foto of the race surface so I`ll look and measure it tomorrow. I remind a little bit of seeable pressure marks and hope, that it`s not too much. Will see.

Thx for Tom Endy`s article. It helps a lot!

As I now understand, the seal A-4245 is not designed to hold the W600 from the Diff out of the brake hub, right? It`s only to hold back the grease not to wander inside of the axle housing?

Is there not a seal anywhere between the axle housing and the brake drum to hold back the oil of the Diff? Or is it the design of the upgoing axle housing, that prevent the diff oil to leak into the brake drum? Or what else???


Last question: to identify, if there is already a repair kit with a smaller bearing inside my Phaeton axle, I only have to measure, if the bearing do have a smaller O.D. Yeah, but I don`t found any numbers yet, only "a little smaller". Not at Snyders, not at Brattons, Mikes or anywhere. And everywhere you can buy the kit, nowhere only the bearing of the kit. Does anyone know, what size was the O.D. of the original bearing and what size from the repair kit?


From Snyders repair kit: "This kit contains one sleeve, and one bearing to repair a worn hub. Simply press the sleeve into the hub, and this bearing has a little smaller O.D., but same I.D. as the original bearing."




JayJay, you`re right, as a German, I`m always fighting with NPT, UNC, UNF, inches different tool sizes a.s.o., but in the meantime I`m able to work with it. Internet research helps a lot. And I bet you feel the same with the metric system.


Have to leave a BIG THX to all of you at FordBarn!

Boys, you made my day! I did wrote my questions yesterday until midnight, got to sleep, woke up and got your helpful answers.



Warm Greetings from Berlin, Germany.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by joda56

Got you, "Axle Housing Repair Race", now I found it at Brattons and Snyders!

Probabely on the right side someone didn`t pressed a repair race deep enough, this -in my opinion- would explains the height difference. Right? I will look tomorrow, if the Race is pressed to the very end of the housing or if there is a gap (probabely I`ll find a gap as deep as the height difference). But anyway, in my unprofessional mind, the height difference would make no problem, as long as the gap is not too deep to affect the hub bearing. So I`m good with it (hope you agree)

There is a grease seal on the inboard side of the hub (Snyders A-1175) that rides on the axle housing. You need to be sure that the grease seal is riding on the housing and not falling into that gap. If so, you are golden.

I don`t have a foto of the race surface so I`ll look and measure it tomorrow. I remind a little bit of seeable pressure marks and hope, that it`s not too much. Will see.

Thx for Tom Endy`s article. It helps a lot!

As I now understand, the seal A-4245 is not designed to hold the W600 from the Diff out of the brake hub, right? It`s only to hold back the grease not to wander inside of the axle housing?

Is there not a seal anywhere between the axle housing and the brake drum to hold back the oil of the Diff? Or is it the design of the upgoing axle housing, that prevent the diff oil to leak into the brake drum? Or what else???

The seal A-4245 seal serves both purposes. The 600W is contained in the banjo and splashes onto the main bearings on the gear carrier. Any that gets by can route to the end of the axle housing and will drip back down the housing by gravity. The seal helps keep the 600w contained within the axle housing. It also prevents migration of the grease from the hub bearing around the outside end of the hub and into the axle housing. There is also a seal (Snyders A-1175) that prevents grease from the bearing from escaping the back of the hub into the brake area.

BTW, the question arises as to what direction to install the A-4245 seal. It can go either way, but I install it with the lip facing inwards. In my mind the 600W, being a liquid, is more likely to migrate than the grease.

Last question: to identify, if there is already a repair kit with a smaller bearing inside my Phaeton axle, I only have to measure, if the bearing do have a smaller O.D.

You would measure the ID of the hub to determine if you already have that kit installed, but you should be able to see the sleeve inside the hub just like you can see the sleeve on the outside of your axle housing. According to a website I found, the hub ID is 3.188" to 3.190” – Max. wear 3.185”. But the Les Andrews Red Book is your definitive source for this.

Yeah, but I don`t found any numbers yet, only "a little smaller". Not at Snyders, not at Brattons, Mikes or anywhere. And everywhere you can buy the kit, nowhere only the bearing of the kit. Does anyone know, what size was the O.D. of the original bearing and what size from the repair kit?

See response above.

From Snyders repair kit: "This kit contains one sleeve, and one bearing to repair a worn hub. Simply press the sleeve into the hub, and this bearing has a little smaller O.D., but same I.D. as the original bearing."

This description is for the hub repair kit. There are two repair kits: one for the axle housing, which requires that you machine down the axle housing and press on the sleeve (Snyders A-1225-SL, it looks like you may have had this installed already), and the hub repair kit (Snyders A-1115-RK), which does not require machining but uses a different rear bearing than stock. The former is used to compensate for a worn axle housing, and the latter is used to compensate for a worn hub. The Les Andrews book gives tolerances to be measured to determine which you have.

JayJay, you`re right, as a German, I`m always fighting with NPT, UNC, UNF, inches different tool sizes a.s.o., but in the meantime I`m able to work with it. Internet research helps a lot. And I bet you feel the same with the metric system.

Actually, most of our modern cars here are already metric, so we are somewhat used to it. (As an aside, I've heard that Harley Davidson motorcycles are the only vehicle that is still manufactured, at least in the USA, with SAE fasteners, but I have not verified that.) It's the rest of our life that is still stuck in imperial sizes.

Have to leave a BIG THX to all of you at FordBarn!

Boys, you made my day! I did wrote my questions yesterday until midnight, got to sleep, woke up and got your helpful answers.

Warm Greetings from Berlin, Germany.

Joda - See above in red.