1951 Heater

[51shoeboxer]

My recently purchased 1951 convertible has only two hoses to the heater, rather than the four that I see in photos of other 1951 Fords. There are only two brass tubes, rather than four sticking out of the firewall. Unfortunately, my heater is not hooked up, as the outlet on the passenger head is plumbed directly to the passenger water pump; the two brass tubes on the firewall are just plumbed to each other. I want to have a functional heater, so I need to know if Ford made two different heaters: one with two hoses, and another with four hoses. Thanks for your help.

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by 51shoeboxer

My recently purchased 1951 convertible has only two hoses to the heater, rather than the four that I see in photos of other 1951 Fords. There are only two brass tubes, rather than four sticking out of the firewall. Unfortunately, my heater is not hooked up, as the outlet on the passenger head is plumbed directly to the passenger water pump; the two brass tubes on the firewall are just plumbed to each other. I want to have a functional heater, so I need to know if Ford made two different heaters: one with two hoses, and another with four hoses. Thanks for your help.

Well, the heater CORE has two tubes, and there is usually a heater water control valve with 2 brass tubes, that is probably the four tubes you have seen. I saw a '50 Tudor at auction (see pic) that had just the heater core plumbed. I thought that perhaps the control valve had started leaking (as they can) so it was bypassed, but I saw there was no heater blower motor. So was there a standard vs deluxe heater offering? Perhaps someone with a Ford Accessory brochure will chime in.

[51shoeboxer]

Thank you, Shoebox.

[meric42]

Here is a picture I found recently whilst researching for my '51 convertible. Is this the heater you have? I will need to look at mine to see what is fitted. I know when I first got it home and put the radiator in it, the heater was leaking so I disconnected it, but I don't remember the exact configuration. If you need more pictures I can tale a picture of mine if that would help?

[meric42]

Here's one listed for sale on FB Marketplace, with several pictures for comparison, if this also helps?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...type=top_picks

[Don T]

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You are missing either the heater core or the control valve. You could add a manual flow control valve on the head and skip the cable controlled valve. There is a rubber diaphragm in the control valve that fails and it then leaks. Although it does not look like it it is repairable (chebby parts)

[meric42]

Originally Posted by Don T

You are missing either the heater core or the control valve. You could add a manual flow control valve on the head and skip the cable controlled valve. There is a rubber diaphragm in the control valve that fails and it then leaks. Although it does not look like it it is repairable (chebby parts)

Can you tell me about the repair option wit the Ch***y parts? I'm asking for a friend

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by meric42

Can you tell me about the repair option wit the Ch***y parts? I'm asking for a friend

There are several sources, including Shoebox Central that CAN rebuild heater control valves, I had them rebuild mine, did excellent job.

[51shoeboxer]

No. Your heater has four brass tubes on the firewall; mine has only the two closer to the engine.

[51shoeboxer]

It is the control valve that is missing from my car. there are no holes in the firewall where the two brass tubes of the control valve should be. The two remaining brass tubes are for the heater core (which may leak, guessing from the lack of connection to the outlet on thw cylinder head.) Thanks for your input.

[rotorwrench]

In the late 40s, there were still several aftermarket suppliers of heating systems for cars and pickups. If a person purchased a car that came with no heating equipment then they would generally purchase an aftermarket set up if needed. In those mid century years, Ford started putting them in all cars but a lot depended on what part of the country they were being shipped to. States with warmer climates were still getting basic cars with no heater. Eventually, it became standard equipment to have a heater. The heater control valves just started to show up in those years. Many folks still put a manual valve in the engine outlet to be able to completely shut the system off. They didn't have AC yet so fresh air vents were all they had. If the heater core was still getting hot then that definitely didn't help the situation in the heat of the summer months.

[Joe B.]

Evidently your car did not come with the accessory heater. Just curious, is there a knockout in the firewall where the heater control valve pipes would pass through? To paraphrase the "Green Bible", all three years are basically the same. Here's the '51 diagram and a couple pics of my '50 which is plumbed correctly. Note the shutoff at the block in the lower right.

[Don T]

I do not know if the valves are reproduced anywhere. Ranco made these valves for other manufacturers as well. First you have to have the valve. My info came from a Ranco search and here is a good link to the repair process, courtesy of a Studebaker site.
https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech...b/rancotb.html Sorry I cannot remember the name of GM parts people I got the rubber part from except I know they were in the Pacific NW. Hope this helps.

[Dan in MI]

Here is the link I saved for the heater control rebuild kit. I have not verified that it is correct. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail...anco_Only.html

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by Dan in MI

Here is the link I saved for the heater control rebuild kit. I have not verified that it is correct. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail...anco_Only.html

Proper disassembling and reassembling of these units is a real bear. I understand that some sort of fixture or tool is used by those who rebuild them. As mentioned before, Shoebox Central and another party that I have seen advertise in V8 Times rebuild these quite resonably.

[flatford8]

There were two different heaters offered. Recirculating and Magic Air. I’ve only had the Magic Air. Some of the control valves, the inlet and outlet of the valve are horizontal, some are vertical. I don’t know the reason for the difference. Maybe just manufacturers. My ‘50 was built in Somerville, MA, My ‘51 was built in Dallas and was a “heater delete” car. Someone added a Magic Air heater but their intent wasn’t a concours installation. My temp control valve in my ‘50 started leaking and I replaced with a quarter turn ball valve. My vehicle is definitely not a “concourse car”.

[flatford8]

Originally Posted by Joe B.

Evidently your car did not come with the accessory heater. Just curious, is there a knockout in the firewall where the heater control valve pipes would pass through? To paraphrase the "Green Bible", all three years are basically the same. Here's the '51 diagram and a couple pics of my '50 which is plumbed correctly. Note the shutoff at the block in the lower right.

I think your shut-off, at the water pump, would still allow hot water to the temp control valve and heater core. The shut-off would have to be at the head to effectively keep the heat out of the cabin, if that matters to your use…….Mark

[rotorwrench]

Most shut offs were installed in the outflow port from the right side cylinder head but the key is just to stop flow. Installing the valve in the right water pump return port will work to do that. If the coolant can't flow then is completely bypasses the ports no mater where the valve is placed in the system.

[Joe B.]

Shoebox Central suggests the shutoff be used in ileu of the heater control valve on cars not equipped with the Magic Aire Heater like the OP's. Open the hood, heat on-heat off? https://shoebox-central.com/1949-195...-control-valve. Mine, at it's location keeps residual heat out of the cabin. I have seen others also located at the water pump.