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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,971
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I would like to add a few thoughts to a few comments above. These are just from my perspective as a restorer.
The costs for someone to restore a Model-A accurately or authentically to the JS book really is not that much more $$. What can make it expensive is finding NOS parts to substitute for actually doing restoration. Someone with a basic set of tools, a modest garage, and a desire can produce an award winning vehicle in their own garage and with their own hands. One of the biggest benefits that I have found from a hobbyist actually restoring to a FP level is the ability to improve their problem solving skills, ...and improving their craftsmanship skills. Possessing those two skills are HUGE for people in this society, and many people lack those skills because they don't practice those skills on a regular basis. Possessing those skills help people succeed in their job, their recreation/hobbies, and their other daily tasks. Regarding the paint discussion, -it has been my experience both as a judge and as a restorer that the goal is to accurately replicate the as-manufactured aesthetics. Polished Lacquer has a distinctive shine that BC/CC paint does not have. All vehicles in adjudication start with 5,000 points (-expanded 500 pt system) and deductions are made based on correctness/authenticity, workmanship, and under/over-restoration. Too shiny is generally defined as over-restoration. Areas such as firewalls and the bottom sides of the hood pieces were originally unbuffed and should have a dull & slightly textured sheen. Those areas are easy to over-restore with even single-stage urethane paint. Likewise, the fenders and body aprons were originally dipped in Alkyd Enamel which were allowed to drip dry. Those had a deep, glossy shine. Therefore every area on a properly restored Model-A's fenders or aprons should be 'glass slick'. If the easy areas of the fender are colorsanded & buffed yet some areas still retain orange peel, then that is considered under-restoration or poor craftsmanship. Again, doing research as to Ford's methods and trying to replicate the finish from that era enhances someone's problem solving skills. The bodywork, painting, a post-paint details increases someone's skillset. Just my 2 cents... |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 787
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It's amusing to read all the justifications for what your are driving. It's your car, just drive it. No one can guarantee in ten years we'll be allowed to purchase gasoline.
It's not easy to do a strict restoration because of the temptation to personalize it. Maybe you gotta have 'sky blue pink'.... but the next guy ??? The more accurate the restoration effort up front, the more $ellable it will be at the end. Your responsibility is to drive with a smile, we're only given one ride. $.02 . |
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#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: The Great Dismal Swamp
Posts: 393
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![]() Quote:
One of my favorite parts of working on Model As is taking parts that would have otherwise been discarded, sometimes not even recognizable, and restoring them to their original glory (photos of two pieces I was working on this morning...)
__________________
Member, MARC Current owner, 1928 RHD Australian-built Phaeton CA4752 "Felicity" and a 1931 Victoria "Katie" Former owner, 1929 Phaeton, 1929 Fordor |
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