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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 10
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Hi y'all. Thank you for letting me into your community. I have a few questions about this car and I am hoping someone with much more knowledge than me can help out. The original owner has passed and I want it to end up in the hands of someone who will enjoy it because old cars are not really my thing. He really enjoyed it though and even took it out in parades within the last few years.
The owner was pretty meticulous about his restoration projects and keeping them original. The only thing I am noticing that is not original so far about this car is his bolted on battery holder under the hood. The paint and body work all seems great aside from a weird spot on the rear right pillar. I don't know much about old cars, but it started right up with some new gas and a battery. I have a few questions before I move forward with trying to sell it. We started it, but his after market (under dash) oil pressure gauge was not really reading anything at idle and probably less than 5 PSI with a little gas so I turned it off until I can properly test the oil pressure and/or make sure the oil gauge is reading right. 1) My first question is how can I test oil pressure in this car? I don't know where the filter is, but the oil looks good and is appropriately full. If there is low pressure, is the oil pump the first thing to replace? If it is more than just the gauge is it worth diagnosing or should I sell as is? Id bet it actually does have good pressure just by knowing the previous owner, but I can't ask him now so... 2) What do you think this car is worth? And where is best to try to sell it? Is there some good auction site for old cars? From what I have seen on auction sites it might be up to 30k? 3) The Body is #48. I don't know the VIN yet, but can you tell what model this is? 4) Is there anything else I should know about this car or about selling it? |
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#2 | |
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Join Date: May 2015
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,395
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That’s the oil filter on the driver side of the engine. There should be a restrictor fitting on the inlet side of the filter with a .060 hole in it. Without it it will cause low oil pressure. That filter isn’t correct for that car so I would probably just remove it and screw a plug in the engine where the supply line is now. I’d say that car is in the $12-15K range.
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#4 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 10
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Would I be correct to assume this is the Deluxe Tudor model? |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,395
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,013
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1935 Ford Deluxe Tudor Touring Sedan |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,881
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That's a nice car. The engine itself is not 'to original specifications' but is still a ford flathead V8. It was in cars fron 1949 to 1953. A perspective buyer of an original car needs to know that. Be sure you put lots of photos in ad and that way it will be apparent anyhow. Good luck with the sale. You can start with a fordbarn classified ad.
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Posts: 3,998
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Sorry GB, you're wrong! That is the original type engine for 1935. I notice it is equipped with the accessory oil bath air cleaner. Nice car!
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Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit! |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,285
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Don’t do anything to it. It is an honest driver nicely restored and cared for. The new owner will make a few required changes, but needs to inspect the car in its present state of repair to confirm the validity of it being a worthy investment. Making any changes at all may give him doubts. You say the oil looks clean, and it starts easily, that’s confirmation that oil pressure is at least adequate. I would not be afraid to pay up to 17k for a car in that condition, which looks to have been out of action due to a bad radiator, from the picture. Don’t auction it, advertise here on the Fordbarn and also on the EFV8CA website. Importantly, the title must be clear. Verify the number on the title with the serial number located on the top of the frame near the steering gear. It nay be difficult to read under paint and grease, so you may have to gently clean it with mild soap & soft brush. Be firm on the price in as-is condition and be honest in your ad like you have been with us here on the Barn. You’ll have to make 8 more postings here before you’ll be able to post an ad, that’s the rules here.
Edit: GB, what have you been drinking? Engine is a 21 stud, and with any luck may even be an LB.
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Alan |
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#10 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 10
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Thank you. |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 10
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 777
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The oil filter is a later addition and was not originally on the car when it rolled off the production line. If you have good oil pressure, leave it alone. If you aren't sure of the oil pressure, I'd disconnect it and plug the ends, that way you are sure that the engine is going to have the best oil pressure it can produce.
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1935 157" 1 1/2 ton stake truck undergoing full original restoration 1936 131 1/2" panel truck rescue preservation Author of the 1935-1936 Ford Model 51 V8 Truck book published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Powell, TN
Posts: 2,617
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It is normal for some flatheads to have low oil pressure at idle. What pressure does it have at higher rpms once it warms up. I would not remove the filter housing, just get a filter and put in it. I believe the 46-53 filter is what you need.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,881
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I stand corrected! I just saw the hoses up front and no center outlets and said 8ba to myself. Well, in retrospect it would have been better to have just said it to myself. Yes, it is clearly a 21 stud, head mounted water pump engine.
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 2,890
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The oil pressure issue could be as simple as a bad after market gauge, a missing restrictor orifice in the line at the oil filter (this is my guess)or something more serious. You could open a big can of worms trying to get to the bottom of it. If you have no real attachment to the car, advertise it AS IS. I would only let a prospective buyer run it long enough to verify it starts and runs. You may have a member of the EFV8 Club local to you who can help you..Good Luck......Mark
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I'm thinkin' about crankin' My ragged ol' truck up and haulin' myself into town. Billy Joe Shaver…RIP |
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#16 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 10
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I didn't run it long enough to let it warm up. My dad says it was at 20psi when we first started it (he was inside and I was outside). When I was looking at it I saw it go up to 5ish psi with a little bit of gas.
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,410
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I can't tell if its a 21 stud engine or not since that filter is blocking the view of the center lower head studs. Pump block off plates are a sign of 1937 or later blocks.
Filters were an add on accessory for the early V8s and they were a throw away item so they are not often seen mounted. The transmission tower appears to be correct for a 35. The early V8s didn't put out a lot of oil pressure at idle but they should have some at road speeds. If there is no filter in that canister then it may as well be removed. If it is cleaned out and a restrictor is in place then by all means put a filter element in it. It's a bypass system but they work OK to keep things cleaner. My Pop had a 35 Standard Tudor during the war. He went from Minter Field in CA to Avon Park in FL in that old car. Last edited by rotorwrench; 06-10-2024 at 12:10 PM. |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,154
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: harpursville ny
Posts: 1,114
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I would at least change the oil as you don’t know what is in there. Use 30wt and see if pressure increases.
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,285
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All these well meaning suggestions are fine to educate a new owner, but the OP has told us that he’s not an old car guy and just needs to sell it. He doesn’t need to tinker with it to create problems. He’s got oil pressure (doesn’t need a lot anyway), oil is clean, it starts and runs, that’s all a buyer needs to know besides confirming the serial number matches the title.
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Alan |
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