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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Coral Springs, Florida
Posts: 560
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Where can I find info about taking one apart for cleaning
TKS |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: The Great Dismal Swamp
Posts: 186
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Mark Maron wrote a really great article about these in the MARC magazine...two months ago now? There's also an article in the Technically Speaking journals that talks about it too (I can't remember the volume, unfortunately). I also recall a tutorial on the MARC facebook group (also from Mark) about restoring them also. I'm sure someone can post some scans. If not, I'd be happy to type it up when I'm not on travel.
Dave
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Member, MAFCA and MARC Current owner, 1928 RHD Australian-built Phaeton CA4752 "Felicity" and a 1931 Victoria "Katie" Former owner, 1929 Phaeton, 1929 Fordor |
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#3 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,188
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![]() Quote:
Also Page 71 with a "Tech Tip" 3 pages by Enrique Klein with more specific details on "3X variations." If you have a box of "parts" this latter would be most useful. Joe K
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: The Great Dismal Swamp
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Thanks Joe!
I love flipping through my books, but have the darnest time remembering where I come across neat articles! ![]()
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Member, MAFCA and MARC Current owner, 1928 RHD Australian-built Phaeton CA4752 "Felicity" and a 1931 Victoria "Katie" Former owner, 1929 Phaeton, 1929 Fordor |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Coral Springs, Florida
Posts: 560
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Daniel Island,SouthCarolina/Knoxville, Tennessee/Sanibel Island,Florida
Posts: 303
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Thx!!! |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,180
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http://modelabasics.com/home.htm Thanks to supplier watch out for the small brass seal. I glass bead the porcelain and interior. but not the metal exterior. or the top of porcelain tape off.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Coral Springs, Florida
Posts: 560
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Gary TKS
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,188
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Tom Sieffert has compiled a "cumulative index pdf" which includes the Restorer, Model A News, Skinned Knuckles, Model A Times and appears at https://model-a-ford.org/wp-content/...ex01012023.pdf There are 4 hits with "find Champion 3x." I'll leave those to you to discern which one is best for you. "Technically Speaking" Vol. 6 was published in 2008, and covers Model A News articles from 1984 through 1988 - which narrows it down somewhat. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Daniel Island,SouthCarolina/Knoxville, Tennessee/Sanibel Island,Florida
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Thanks JoeK....I've only got hard copy of each mag from about 2018 to date.
Will need to buy the electronic versions of the older mags! |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,022
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 576
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Here is a reprint of Mark Maron's excellent article. I taped pieces of a paint stir stick to the inside of the vise jaws to avoid damaging the fresh surface:
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Coral Springs, Florida
Posts: 560
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I'm having trouble with some of my trusted Vendors parts. Had to file down the chock control to get the sleeve to slide in place. Now that's not to big of a problem. So now if I were to order the head-light wiring kit -- whom should I purchase from? I'm not an electrician, far from one
TKS Guys Darn it! I though I was posting a new question Last edited by rfitzpatrick; 02-05-2024 at 07:02 PM. |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
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It won't matter where you get the headlight wiring kit (includes the bakelite disk with the "contacts." Everyone is selling the same thing.
The defects you'll find are that the "buttons" on the disk are not "dimpled" enough to really hold onto the switch spider. There may be a tendency to turn on your lights as you turn the steering wheel. Another defect commonly noted is the "button ends" on the wires are a sort of el-cheapo pressed sheet metal affair - and don't hold especially well into the light bulb housings in the headlights. Most sellers sell the "turned wire ends" to replace these which are more like the original but require some wire soldering to cut off the pressed buttons and solder on the replacement turned buttons. So you'll be doing some radio/tv level soldering with rosin core solder (try to get 60-40 which is still available, but expensive.) It is possible to get an "original" headlight wiring from Berts - but there is an element of "don't know exactly what you'll get" in that. Likely you'll have to replace the wires/ends anyway (cotton covered wire) and the wear situation of the bakelite plate might be indeterminate. You've got my answer - but there may be others. Your best plan might be to open a new thread on the wiring harness and get other opinions. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. |
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#15 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Newnan GA
Posts: 6
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Has anyone tried the sparkplug cleaning machines that hook up to an air compressor? I see one for $40 via Northern Tool, I have original 3x plugs I would rather clean and save vs buying new ones, anyone had luck with the machine???
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,104
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I have one, doesn't work worth a darn, not worth buying.
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: The Great Dismal Swamp
Posts: 186
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Part of the benefit of the 3X plugs it that you can take them apart and clean the individual pieces separately, then reassemble. Using a common scouring pad, they can be cleaned up quite nicely.
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Member, MAFCA and MARC Current owner, 1928 RHD Australian-built Phaeton CA4752 "Felicity" and a 1931 Victoria "Katie" Former owner, 1929 Phaeton, 1929 Fordor |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Waxahachie, Texas
Posts: 994
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As far as using 3X plugs for a driver - I took mine apart, cleaned them in carb cleaner, wire wheeled them then sprayed them again with carb cleaner (the factory bluing was pretty far gone, so didn't harm any nice plugs doing this). After they were clean and dry I sprayed them with high temp barbecue black paint. They looked like new plugs when I was done.
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 895
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I found the plug blaster to work quite well. I guess it would depend on how fouled your plugs are.
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The Master Cylinder Enjoying life at the beach in SoCal... |
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#20 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,051
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