Zeroing in a fly wheel cover

[nkaminar]

It is a good idea to grind the two ends, even if you don't clean up all the pits. For one thing, the side that mounts to the block has to make a good seal where the rear cam bearing is. A lot of flywheel housing are not flat there which has lead to leaks. As far as indicating it, clean up the face with a flat file, just enough to get rid of any rust and burrs, and then indicate where there are not pits. Check the fit to the block by trying to insert feeler gauges after bolting the housing to the block without a gasket.

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

It is a good idea to grind the two ends, even if you don't clean up all the pits. For one thing, the side that mounts to the block has to make a good seal where the rear cam bearing is. A lot of flywheel housing are not flat there which has lead to leaks. As far as indicating it, clean up the face with a flat file, just enough to get rid of any rust and burrs, and then indicate where there are not pits. Check the fit to the block by trying to insert feeler gauges after bolting the housing to the block without a gasket.

I did all that with the file, the pits are too deep.Wish I had Brent's grinder to clean up the surfaces. Many people's advice would be to junk it I'm sure.
Terry

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

I did all that with the file, the pits are too deep.Wish I had Brent's grinder to clean up the surfaces. Many people's advice would be to junk it I'm sure.
Terry

Here is a simple way to get an indicator reading with a very pitted surface.
First, there must be enough flat surface left to do this. After simple cleaning with a file, make up a shoe for your indicator. Take a ordinary high tool speed tool bit, say a 3/8 square by 3 inches long and braze a pin to the middle of the tool bit that will fit in the indicator receiver hole. Now check the pin for 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the bit using another indicator. Close is good enough. Grind the corners off the bottom of the tool bit so it will slide easily over the surface being checked.
Now try checking your housing surface.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Pete

Here is a simple way to get an indicator reading with a very pitted surface.
First, there must be enough flat surface left to do this. After simple cleaning with a file, make up a shoe for your indicator. Take a ordinary high tool speed tool bit, say a 3/8 square by 3 inches long and braze a pin to the middle of the tool bit that will fit in the indicator receiver hole. Now check the pin for 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the bit using another indicator. Close is good enough. Grind the corners off the bottom of the tool bit so it will slide easily over the surface being checked.
Now try checking your housing surface.

Easier still is to fill the low spots on the F/W cover with ordinary body filler or an epoxy putty, then file or sand down till the high spots show through - just like preparing a body panel for paint.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Easier still is to fill the low spots on the F/W cover with ordinary body filler or an epoxy putty, then file or sand down till the high spots show through - just like preparing a body panel for paint.

That is not an option with me.
I never use body filler for anything.
It is a Mickey Mouse way of doing a job quick and very poorly.
There are a few of us left that prefer to do things to old day standards.

I chopped a 41 Ford coupe once with NO lead of fillers that won best in show for body work.

[Synchro909]

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Originally Posted by Pete

That is not an option with me.
I never use body filler for anything.
It is a Mickey Mouse way of doing a job quick and very poorly.
There are a few of us left that prefer to do things to old day standards.

I chopped a 41 Ford coupe once with NO lead of fillers that won best in show for body work.

We all have our funny little ways!

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

We all have our funny little ways!

I didn't insult you but I can if need be.