The Ford Barn

meteorgray · 07-30-2023, 09:13 AM

Does it matter which side of the gasket faces the manifold?

Big hammer · 07-30-2023, 10:21 AM

No, I put the folded edge against the block.

stevemclark · 07-30-2023, 11:51 AM

Torque it evenly from inside to outside 25-35 lbs.Ford Model A specification torque, some venders say 55lbs for their manifolds. Any other ideas?Sealant or not?

meteorgray · 07-30-2023, 01:11 PM

I think I will put a thin coat of Permatex Optima High temp
sealant. Good for exhaust headers 750 degrees.
Roger

nkaminar · 07-30-2023, 05:54 PM

The studs and bolts are the same as the ones used on the head. So torque to 55 foot-pounds. The gaskets for the manifold settle in more than the head gasket so re torque after the initial heat. Re torque like you would do with the head, after the initial heat, after 100 miles, etc. Some owners say to loosen the bolts that fasten the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold before you do the torquing.

Ed in Maine · 07-30-2023, 06:11 PM

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The studs may be the same as the cylinder head but how about the "ears" on the exhaust manifold? I would stay with the published spec.s of 30-35 ft. lbs. and torque them often after installation and driving.

nkaminar · 07-30-2023, 06:49 PM

I don't know Ed. 55 works for me. My intake manifold is not bolted to the exhaust manifold. Before I started torquing to 55 and re torquing frequently I had problems with blowing the gaskets.

alexiskai · 07-30-2023, 07:11 PM

Remember that the point of tightening the nuts on the manifold studs – whatever torque value you're using – is to seal the gaskets. Tightening beyond the force needed to seal your particular gaskets on your particular engine does nothing except put shear stress on the manifold ears.

For perspective, the Remflex gaskets specify 15 ft-lbs.

meteorgray · 07-31-2023, 03:29 PM

Hey guys, thanks for all your suggestions and information, very helpful.
Roger

jemccab · 07-31-2023, 03:56 PM

Be sure the manifold is flat. Use a straight edge long enough to cover the whole manifold.

Bob Bidonde · 08-01-2023, 10:34 AM

These slides may help you.
The large washers that clamp the exhaust & intake manifolds are actually cupped to act like springs. The cupped springs take-up thermal expansion of the studs and manifolds so the joints remain tight. The cups open inward. If you torque the cup washers like the cylinder head nuts, you are likely flattening them and defeating their purpose. The cupped washers were originally made from leaf spring material.
My practice is to torque the nuts to 25 to 35 lbs-ft, warm-up the engine to operating temperature, and tighten the manifold nuts just enough to stop any leaks.

katy · 08-01-2023, 10:40 AM

Quote:

The large washers that clamp the exhaust & intake manifolds are actually cupped to act like springs.

They're called "Belleville" washers and are made of spring steel.

dmar836 · 08-01-2023, 11:50 AM

Interestingly, I just saw a video the other day by Mr. Shinn who said the A manifold should be tightened from one end to the other (from either end) but not from the center out. Not sure if that's due to the tendency for warping but he specified it's not like a cylinder head.
No argument from me - just passing that along.
D

alexiskai · 08-01-2023, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmar836

Interestingly, I just saw a video the other day by Mr. Shinn who said the A manifold should be tightened from one end to the other (from either end) but not from the center out. Not sure if that's due to the tendency for warping but he specified it's not like a cylinder head.
No argument from me - just passing that along.
D

Correct, it's not like a cylinder head because it's one-dimensional. The bolts are all in a line. Tightening down the line from one end to the other minimizes the bending strain at each joint.

nkaminar · 08-01-2023, 12:57 PM

Katy, The washers do not deflect, they are too stiff. They act like a suspension system and rock to accommodate slightly different thicknesses of the flanges. The concave side should be against the manifolds.

What ever torque you decide to use, tighten the nuts a little at a time so that the manifolds stay flat. And check the torque after an initial heat and after 100 miles or less. You will be surprised by how much the gaskets compress. Don't use the paper gaskets, use only the composite gaskets made up of a copper sandwich. Make re torquing part of your maintenance procedure.

rackops · 08-08-2023, 01:48 PM

The result of overtightening... (it was a nice RHD manifold as well...)

meteorgray · 08-08-2023, 04:21 PM

I did 30lbs starting at 20lbs with 5lb increments. So far no leaks!

07-30-2023, 10:21 AM	#2
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,151	Re: exhaust manifold gasket No, I put the folded edge against the block. __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

07-30-2023, 11:51 AM	#3
stevemclark Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Central Shenandoah Valley,Waynesboro,Va. Posts: 93	Re: exhaust manifold gasket Torque it evenly from inside to outside 25-35 lbs.Ford Model A specification torque, some venders say 55lbs for their manifolds. Any other ideas?Sealant or not? __________________ It's not the destination ,it's the journey .

07-30-2023, 01:11 PM	#4
meteorgray Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: new jersey Posts: 38	Re: exhaust manifold gasket I think I will put a thin coat of Permatex Optima High temp sealant. Good for exhaust headers 750 degrees. Roger

07-30-2023, 05:54 PM	#5
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 4,002	Re: exhaust manifold gasket The studs and bolts are the same as the ones used on the head. So torque to 55 foot-pounds. The gaskets for the manifold settle in more than the head gasket so re torque after the initial heat. Re torque like you would do with the head, after the initial heat, after 100 miles, etc. Some owners say to loosen the bolts that fasten the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold before you do the torquing. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

07-30-2023, 06:11 PM	#6
Ed in Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington Cty., ME or Flagler Cty., FL Posts: 1,114	Re: exhaust manifold gasket Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) The studs may be the same as the cylinder head but how about the "ears" on the exhaust manifold? I would stay with the published spec.s of 30-35 ft. lbs. and torque them often after installation and driving.

07-30-2023, 06:49 PM	#7
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 4,002	Re: exhaust manifold gasket I don't know Ed. 55 works for me. My intake manifold is not bolted to the exhaust manifold. Before I started torquing to 55 and re torquing frequently I had problems with blowing the gaskets. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

07-30-2023, 07:11 PM	#8
alexiskai Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Mebane NC Posts: 2,381	Re: exhaust manifold gasket Remember that the point of tightening the nuts on the manifold studs – whatever torque value you're using – is to seal the gaskets. Tightening beyond the force needed to seal your particular gaskets on your particular engine does nothing except put shear stress on the manifold ears. For perspective, the Remflex gaskets specify 15 ft-lbs.

07-31-2023, 03:29 PM	#9
meteorgray Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: new jersey Posts: 38	Re: exhaust manifold gasket Hey guys, thanks for all your suggestions and information, very helpful. Roger

07-31-2023, 03:56 PM	#10
jemccab Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Posts: 12	Re: exhaust manifold gasket Be sure the manifold is flat. Use a straight edge long enough to cover the whole manifold.

08-01-2023, 11:50 AM	#13
dmar836 Member Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Kansas City Posts: 64	Re: exhaust manifold gasket Interestingly, I just saw a video the other day by Mr. Shinn who said the A manifold should be tightened from one end to the other (from either end) but not from the center out. Not sure if that's due to the tendency for warping but he specified it's not like a cylinder head. No argument from me - just passing that along. D

08-01-2023, 12:57 PM	#15
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 4,002	Re: exhaust manifold gasket Katy, The washers do not deflect, they are too stiff. They act like a suspension system and rock to accommodate slightly different thicknesses of the flanges. The concave side should be against the manifolds. What ever torque you decide to use, tighten the nuts a little at a time so that the manifolds stay flat. And check the torque after an initial heat and after 100 miles or less. You will be surprised by how much the gaskets compress. Don't use the paper gaskets, use only the composite gaskets made up of a copper sandwich. Make re torquing part of your maintenance procedure. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 08-01-2023 at 01:02 PM.

08-08-2023, 04:21 PM	#17
meteorgray Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: new jersey Posts: 38	Re: exhaust manifold gasket I did 30lbs starting at 20lbs with 5lb increments. So far no leaks!