More Brakes, How Far To Cut Swage??

[Bored&Stroked]

"I use a torque of 200 to 220 ft #'s, on a clean/dry taper, and re-torque several times until torque becomes stable. This is what I found worked best for me, but as orhers have already said, your methods and results may vary."

This is super important in that it is the TAPER that provides the bond/strength to the rear hub, not the key. Also, most folks don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 200 ft/lbs, that is mandatory. I have a big MAC torque wrench that goes to 250. I tighten mine to 200, drive around a bit (especially around corners where I get side loads), then retorque . . . then do it again.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

"I use a torque of 200 to 220 ft #'s, on a clean/dry taper, and re-torque several times until torque becomes stable. This is what I found worked best for me, but as orhers have already said, your methods and results may vary."

This is super important in that it is the TAPER that provides the bond/strength to the rear hub, not the key. Also, most folks don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 200 ft/lbs, that is mandatory. I have a big MAC torque wrench that goes to 250. I tighten mine to 200, drive around a bit (especially around corners where I get side loads), then retorque . . . then do it again.

B&S, It definitely is very important. The '35 drum/hub I just posted about failed on a '35 sedan that I was doing some work on for the owner, because the rear axle nut had not been torqued anywhere near the 200 ft/lbs. The axle key was sheared in two pieces, the axle taper was all screwed up, and the inner taper of the hub was completely wallowed out to the point it was unusable. This was all caused by the previous owner not tightening the axle nut properly.

Another very important requirement for getting that axle nut to it's specified torque is having good full threads on both the axle, and the axle nut, and having nuts that have been manufactured with the correct material and heat treated to proper hardness. In most case's this means finding an original Ford axle nut, because the reproduction versions carried by some of our top sources were not being manufactured correctly and would not make the specified torque requiement without the threads stripping.