The Ford Barn

Bored&Stroked · 03-08-2023, 08:01 AM

That is a very common crack and like Tony (KiwinUS) mentioned, it can usually be fixed. BUT - it should be fixed by somebody who has used IronTite plugs for a long time, knows how to correctly drill, knows how to "overlap" the plugs, has the correct taps, etc..

Lastly, before that process is done, the block needs to be cleaned, magnafluxed on ALL sides (pan rails can easily be cracked), then pressure tested. This will identify any other cracks to deal with. Depending on how many cracks and where they are located, then a decision can be made to "save the block" or not.

If you're going for a larger over-bore (say 1/8"), then it is usually a good idea to sonic test the block so the machinist knows how much material they have to work with and can recommend a safe over-bore.

After that, the valve seat is knocked out of it, then a series of overlapping iron threaded pins are screwed into place, then the block is bored for a new sleeve and a new valve seat is pressed in place.

Once the engine is built, I highly recommend that upon it's first water-fill and start-up that you use a "ceramic seal" type of water-glass product to help coat the inside of the block and ensure that everything gets sealed up. I use Moroso Ceramic Seal.

My guess is that unless there are additional cracks in very bad places (inside the exhaust passages, pan rails, etc), that the block can be saved.

Best of luck,
B&S

03-08-2023, 08:01 AM	#11
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,723	Re: 59 block questions That is a very common crack and like Tony (KiwinUS) mentioned, it can usually be fixed. BUT - it should be fixed by somebody who has used IronTite plugs for a long time, knows how to correctly drill, knows how to "overlap" the plugs, has the correct taps, etc.. Lastly, before that process is done, the block needs to be cleaned, magnafluxed on ALL sides (pan rails can easily be cracked), then pressure tested. This will identify any other cracks to deal with. Depending on how many cracks and where they are located, then a decision can be made to "save the block" or not. If you're going for a larger over-bore (say 1/8"), then it is usually a good idea to sonic test the block so the machinist knows how much material they have to work with and can recommend a safe over-bore. After that, the valve seat is knocked out of it, then a series of overlapping iron threaded pins are screwed into place, then the block is bored for a new sleeve and a new valve seat is pressed in place. Once the engine is built, I highly recommend that upon it's first water-fill and start-up that you use a "ceramic seal" type of water-glass product to help coat the inside of the block and ensure that everything gets sealed up. I use Moroso Ceramic Seal. My guess is that unless there are additional cracks in very bad places (inside the exhaust passages, pan rails, etc), that the block can be saved. Best of luck, B&S