Drake fuel sender

[Flathead Fever]

Hook up your sender wire and also give it a ground wire. While holding it outside of the tank see if at its full travel the gauge reads empty at the bottom and full at the top. That way you know it's compatible with the voltage and the gauge. Now you need to figure out what part of the arm will hit the bottom of the tank and the top of the tank at the same time the sender reaches its up and down limits. You can measure the depth of the tank. Then suspend the sender from something that same height. Jump the sending unit wire from the car and a ground wire to your suspended sender. See what the gauge reads at the top and bottom of the float travel of your imaginary tank. Then remove the float and pick different spots on the arm to see which spot the float would be long enough to reach the bottom and the top of the tank when the sender also reaches its limits. If you find the happy spot install the float there on the arm. Years ago, I did this aftermarket sender replacement on the neighbor's stock, 6V, '40 convertible and it worked like it should. We just had to find the right length for the arm.

I bought this today for the grandsons. Okay, it might have been for me. it's not a Ford but it Is flathead powered (one-cylinder) and it has Ford style front suspension. 1957-1958 quarter midget. Another checkmark on the bucket list.