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#1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ohio
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Is there a way to determine if a car's engine has a counterbalanced crankshaft without dropping the oil pan? My thought is if the engine is run at a certain speed an "excessive" vibration will show up. Is there another way?
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
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Remove the crankcase breather pipe on the driver's side of the engine and look inside.
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#3 |
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Thanks Bob. I am exploring a way that, if I did not own the car, I could determine if the engine was rebuilt with a counterbalanced crankshaft.
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#4 | |
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JayJay
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan |
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#5 | |
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Ruth "Sometimes you really DO need to read the whole thread" |
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#6 |
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Update: Nope Last edited by alexiskai; 03-03-2021 at 05:45 PM. |
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#7 |
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Location: Ohio
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Simple. Get a guy in your club to drive your car that has had his car without a counterweighted crank, and then got his engine rebuilt with one. A drive down the road at 50MPH, then take your foot off the gas, and reapply. The vibrations in the steering wheel, and the rear view mirror, plus his experience will tell you in about 2 minutes.
Last edited by Gene F; 03-03-2021 at 07:57 PM. |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: n. cal [Monterey Bay]
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slightly off subject.
I bought a set of counterweights about 20 years ago. I'd like to know if i can just bolt them on to the crank and go with that?? There are no instructions with this item. Tks, Jerbo |
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#9 | |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
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Press on weight application is quite involved and has been covered in other posts in the past. |
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#10 |
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Location: Ohio
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Pete is right. He's not being rude when he tells you this. Sometimes we try to save people from pain later, and some folks take it wrong.
One other thing. When the journals are machined they should not join the bosses at 90 degrees. There should be a shoulder there (a curve up - I forget the technical name) otherwise the crank is succeptable to snap down the road (did you catch that funny LOL). I have experienced this, and it is no fun. Just because you hire a big name shop, and pay a big price is no guarantee the work will be done right. |
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Might want to magnaflux the crank after installation of weights too. I wound up with 2 cracks after a press on installation by a reputable machinist. Things can go sideways anytime.
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#12 |
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#13 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
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BTW.... The oil fill tube is removable. I would remove that tube to view crankcase area... short of removing pan. Last edited by hardtimes; 03-08-2021 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Zzzzzzz |
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#14 |
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#15 |
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I have found that the oil breather pipes are extremely difficult to remove from Model B engines, but no so on Model A engines.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#16 | |
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I made a tool/device. The idea was to make it grab the pipe using full circumference. Upward pressure using hammer strokes /tapping on bottom... while twisting ‘tool’ handle... back and forth. Wasn’t easy, but not in hurry took plenty of time. Tube came out... paint was scratched. This was a B engine tube. Alex, I took my tube out because it was filled with crud and HAD to be cleaned. If it was not , I would have spray painted it in place. Last edited by hardtimes; 03-10-2021 at 02:01 AM. Reason: Xxxxxxx |
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