Installing head studs in a 59L

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

Over here we prefer studs, we use ONLY the ARP head stud kits.

We put our own kits together here to keep the cost lower over buying from ARP through the aftermarket suppliers!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I'll put a "very important" tip here also, whether you choose bolts or studs, DO NOT (under any circumstances) install any type anti-freeze until it's all been fired up & broken in!! Been down this road here with some recent builds and also learned this from past dyno experiences!!

Explain please.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Originally Posted by GOSFAST View Post
Over here we prefer studs, we use ONLY the ARP head stud kits.

We put our own kits together here to keep the cost lower over buying from ARP through the aftermarket suppliers!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I'll put a "very important" tip here also, whether you choose bolts or studs, DO NOT (under any circumstances) install any type anti-freeze until it's all been fired up & broken in!! Been down this road here with some recent builds and also learned this from past dyno experiences!!

Explain please.

Hi Jack, which part??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y

P.S. The answer to the post or the P.S.??

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by gosfast

hi jack, which part??

Thanks, gary in n.y

p.s. The answer to the post or the p.s.??

p.s.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

p.s.

OK Jack, with the additives, lubricants and rust inhibitors found in most anti-freeze brands today these all have an effect on the sealing of the studs.

These "additives" tend to allow "minor" leaks to continue for an extended period of time, sometimes literally "washing" away some of the bolt/stud sealer.

Most "minor" leaks will stop on their own and it's generally easier/quicker with plain water in the program.

About 95% of the "race" engine builders in our area tell all their customers to refrain from using anti-freeze from the get-go, this is a fact here anyway!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Back around 1965 when we were just starting out we had a discussion with Prestone about this scenario. It was actually their recommendation (back then) to fire all fresh builds with water only! I can add this also, through the years of dyno testing various builds we would see small amounts of water coming up the bolts/studs. We would also occasionally see some drips from the core plugs (rarer). The dyno uses fresh water only, no anti-freeze, and most times when the testing was finished the leaks would have already stopped on their own. You also don't need any anti-freeze leaking while trying to first start the fresh build, water doesn't make the same mess!!