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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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That screw is nice & snug SDJason. Thanks.
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#22 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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Then the ammeter seems to be working correctly and the battery should stay charged. Checking the wiring from the starter thru to the distributor/points for opens and grounds doesn't take too long. Look things over closely and don't be afraid to 'wiggle' things while attached to a continuity meter or test light. Give the key switch a good workout with a continuity meter attached. Check that key switch isn't contacting the fuel tank intermittently, depending on what switch you have. |
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Innisfil, Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,205
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Check to see if the Distributor is grounding to the engine. Put a jumper between the dist. body anda ground. Sometimes rust will form between the too and you get a poor ground. My thoughts.
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
Posts: 2,091
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Does the coil get warm to the touch after the car is otherwise cold? Mine did that, and it turned out to be a defective pop out switch.
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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I don't have a pop out switch anymore. This one is made by Nu-Rex. I'll try these ideas when I get at it again.
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#26 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,716
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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