29 Tudor charging system question

[fred93]

Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac

The amp meter is not dependent on the voltage regulator/cut out to show a discharge. If it isn’t moving then you have a wire loose or it’s defective. The cut out working or not working changes the readout of the amp meter, but you will still have a readout regardless of whether the cut out is open or closed.

I can't believe that so many of the parts that I have bought for this car have turned out to be junk.

I sent all the shocks out to Robert Paul years ago and the two front shocks started leaking after several years of just sitting in the garage. (I don't know what I am going to do about that problem yet)

I purchased two new hood shelves from Bratton's that did not fit (they refunded me on those). And I bought new ones from Bert's that do fit.

The floor mats that I bought from Bratton's did not fit--they refunded me on that--I finally got a good set from Snyder's.

I went through several pieces of new window glass from Bert's--they had bad scratches on the glass--Bert's worked with me on those and I finally got a good set.

I bought brand new authentic cooling hose clamps that are not worth a s**t. I found some really good ones at a plumbing store.

I bought a brand new fuel sediment bulb that leaks like a sieve--I removed the screen to elevate that problem and installed an aftermarket filter inside the glass bulb

Now I have a bad cutout AND a bad (presumably) ammeter! Both items were purchased several years ago but they only have a few hours of run time on them!

For test purposes I disconnected the wire coming from the generator to the cutout and placed a jumper wire from that wire to the wires that are attached to the output side of the cutout--please see photo for more clarity. With the engine running at high idle and the jumper wire in place, I then have 7.97 volts going into the battery. However, the ammeter still did not move off of zero.

Correct me if I am wrong---since the headlights and dash light is working then the ammeter is not fried??? but it is just not working???

I read somewhere that the ammeter is somewhat like a fuse--if too much current is going through it, it will just burn out???