What are some of the counter intuitive things you have learned about a Model A?

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by shew01

This post may be helpful to folks that are new to Model A’s.

- Depending on the distributor, it has at least one manual place to oil it, a sliding tube at the distributor’s base.

The mod below is not required, note that the operator manual indicates to fill the oil cup/shaft full until it will not take more oil. The theory is if done properly the oil migrates up into the upper bushing.

As I understand it, an aftermarket enhancement is a “drilled” cam screw that accepts oil from the hole in the center of the screw, which lubricates the upper distributor shaft. This only works if the upper distributor shaft is also drilled through the center of the shaft and drilled with a hole in the side of the lower portion of the shaft.





- The starting sequence is unusual. Be sure to turn on the gas valve (under the dash or in the engine compartment, depending on the year of the car). Be sure to push the spark lever (the left lever on the steering wheel) all the way up during starting.
Pull the throttle lever (the right lever on the steering wheel) about 1/3 of the way down for starting. Turn on the ignition key. Press the starter button on the floor to start the car. (You will probably need to “fiddle” with the GAV to get it started. Pull the GAV to choke the carburetor. Turn the GAV counter clockwise the increase the fuel richness.) Release the Choke after the second compression and the motor should start, holding it longer than that has a tendency to flood the engine. This is a common issue to those newer to older cars with manual chokes. Once started, push the throttle lever back up to adjust the idle, and pull the spark lever down 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down, depending on how the car runs. Turn the GAV clockwise to lean out the due mixture, depending on how the car runs.

- While driving, push the spark lever up when the engine is working hard (i.e., when climbing hills). Pull the spark lever down 1/3 to 1/2 when in flat road, depending on how the car runs.


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A couple of additional notes.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

A couple of additional notes.

I updated sections "4)" and "7)" in post 1. Thanks for the feedback.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

A couple of additional notes.

Thanks so much for the feedback! I really appreciate it.

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

2) ... Up to you, may want to mention how the GAV/Choke Rod disconnects from the carb, also unique.

I added item 14 to post #1, but I need some help wording this one. I have no experience taking this apart.

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

5) ... As a side note, I think motors were stamped on the line when installing the motor on the frame, to match the frame #. So the correct # is what is on the frame.

I updated the content for item 5 in post #1. I'm still not happy with how the wording flows.

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

6) ... Also recommended is cleaning out the valve galley located behind the valve cover, and additionally cleaning the 3 small oil passages located in the rear bottom of the oil galley.

I updated the content for item 6 in post #1.

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

10) ... It is recommended to use the Barn Search function as the vast majority of questions/subjects have been previously discussed. Forum members appreciate those who have done some homework before posting.

Good call. I have a dry sense of humor, and, sometimes, my snarkiness gets the better of me. ;-) I don't intend to offend anyone. I updated the content.

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

13) ... it tends to clog carburetor parts and possibly score the gas shutoff valve.

I updated the content for item 13 in post #1.

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

14) The GAV/choke rod connection to the carburetor is unique.

I need some help wording for this one--I have never had this apart.

I also added 15) and 16).