Fresh 8BA oil pressure problem

[40cpe]

I would tend to believe that the initial low oil pressure was related to the oil pump relief valve not seating. It sounds like the puff of smoke at the exhaust is what made you look at the gauge again to see the higher oil pressure. At this point I would be more concerned about the puff of smoke, was it white or oil blue? I would run it some more to get some stability and see if the smoke goes away or gets worse. Watch the coolant.

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I would tend to believe that the initial low oil pressure was related to the oil pump relief valve not seating. It sounds like the puff of smoke at the exhaust is what made you look at the gauge again to see the higher oil pressure. At this point I would be more concerned about the puff of smoke, was it white or oil blue? I would run it some more to get some stability and see if the smoke goes away or gets worse. Watch the coolant.

I felt the same about the initial low pressure resulting from a possible faulty relief.

Smoke was lt. blue, just like during the initial run-in. My thought was too much oil on the fresh cylinders and new rings that may not be fully seated.

Oil is clean, and no water out the heads with the plugs removed.

A little nervous about any more running without a better understanding of what's going on. I ran it for about a minute after I noticed the 45 psi reading, trying to clean out the cylinders, without success.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

Smoke was lt. blue, just like during the initial run-in. My thought was too much oil on the fresh cylinders and new rings that may not be fully seated.

This sounds like a normal situation - as the rings are not yet seated into the bores. Keep in mind that rings don't seat on a run-in stand, or by running the engine without load.

Once you get the oil-pressure situation figured out, try to get the engine in a car and do some heavy initial break-in runs - this load is what seats the rings.

Don't make the common mistake of running the engine on a stand or not under load (cause it sounds so good ) . . . you risk glazing the cylinder walls and the rings may never seat.

Once you know you have good/correct oil pressure, have re-torqued the heads, have no gasket leak issues and have set your timing -- get the car on the road and break it is correctly.

[V8 Bob]

Bored&stroked,
I'll try to address your questions.


1) Initial low psi:
a) The clean-outs were tapped for pipe plugs I installed and staked.
b) Possible, but with 10W30 and very high final pressure, probably not.
c) Possible.
d) No issue.
e) Visual inspection looked OK.
f) I carefully assembled this engine-no missing galley plugs.

g) This was checked and is OK.
h) Hopefully this is the problem.



2) Puffs of smoke.
a) Light puffs were noticed during the first few minutes of break-in then disappeared. During the second run a day later the engine ran clean until the psi became high. Definitely oil smoke.
b) I'll look into doing a leak-down.



3) Higher psi.
The pressure is taken from the output of the filter, hard to see in the pics above, but opposite the feed hose to the block.
The filter is a common Ford (Motorcraft) FL-1. I agree the filter would just bypass if plugged and not affect psi.


4) When I pull the pan I'll check the bottom end. The filter will also be examined.

[Ol' Ron]

I've never used an aftermarket oil pump, since I had to replace several Mellings, back in the 90's. Hope they have improved their quality control issues in China. I use old ford pumps ever since. However 10 at odle and 40 running in cruse is more than enough.

[tubman]

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Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I've never used an aftermarket oil pump, since I had to replace several Mellings, back in the 90's. Hope they have improved their quality control issues in China. I use old ford pumps ever since. However 10 at odle and 40 running in cruse is more than enough.

Everything you say is true, but I'd be very concerned with oil pressure numbers like that on a fresh build, especially with a late pump.

[GB SISSON]

While it isn't a ford engine, I installed a used 220 cu in cummins inline six in my 59 f350 a few years back. It never had the oil pressure it should. Rebuild parts were very $, so I found another good engine and installed it. Just had to take the old one apart to check. Here's what I found. In the oil pressure relief valve at the front of the block there was a chunk of foreign matter shaped like a spear point jammed under the plunger. I puled the spring and got it out in one piece. I pinched the chunk and it crumbled, that's why I think it was sand, maybe carbon. Oil pressure went straight to factory new specs. Perhaps a chunk of hard crud from the crank or somewhere else was lodged in your pump. My .02 on your situation.

[V8 Bob]

The lower than expected pressure is one thing, but the main issue now is how or why the pressure went from 10 psi at warm idle to a solid 45.