Model A Ford generator

[Tom Wesenberg]

Start the engine and set it to a fast idle, then jump across the two cutout terminals. If it now shows a charge the cutout needs the contacts cleaned, or the pull in winding is bad. If the amp guage still shows a charge after the jumper wire is removed, then the generator just needed to be polarized.

Don't run a Model A generator for more than a few seconds if it's not connected to the battery, or it may burn itself up. If the cutout is faulty, then the generator isn't connected to the battery. In case of a faulty cutout, you can safely run the generator by jumping the output post to ground.

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Start the engine and set it to a fast idle, then jump across the two cutout terminals. If it now shows a charge the cutout needs the contacts cleaned, or the pull in winding is bad. If the amp guage still shows a charge after the jumper wire is removed, then the generator just needed to be polarized.

Don't run a Model A generator for more than a few seconds if it's not connected to the battery, or it may burn itself up. If the cutout is faulty, then the generator isn't connected to the battery. In case of a faulty cutout, you can safely run the generator by jumping the output post to ground.

Is the procedure any different if you have a diode cutout (bought from a major shop)? My gen motors, but doesn't give more than battery voltage at a fast idle and the 3rd brush pushed all the way down.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

Is the procedure any different if you have a diode cutout (bought from a major shop)? My gen motors, but doesn't give more than battery voltage at a fast idle and the 3rd brush pushed all the way down.

Same procedure for the diode cutout. Jump the two terminals with the engine at fast idle, then if it still shows no charge the generator most likely needs to be repaired. Check the voltage with a seperate meter to see if it rises above battery voltage.

[Bruce of MN]

Thanks, I'll do this.. I always thought that motoring was a reliable sign that the generator was OK.

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Same procedure for the diode cutout. Jump the two terminals with the engine at fast idle, then if it still shows no charge the generator most likely needs to be repaired. Check the voltage with a seperate meter to see if it rises above battery voltage.

[youngs1]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Start the engine and set it to a fast idle, then jump across the two cutout terminals. If it now shows a charge the cutout needs the contacts cleaned, or the pull in winding is bad. If the amp guage still shows a charge after the jumper wire is removed, then the generator just needed to be polarized.

Don't run a Model A generator for more than a few seconds if it's not connected to the battery, or it may burn itself up. If the cutout is faulty, then the generator isn't connected to the battery. In case of a faulty cutout, you can safely run the generator by jumping the output post to ground.

Tom, you were right on the money for my French-assembled 29 Tudor's side cutout Powerhouse generator about the polarization. Had a loose field coil that caused a break in the solid wire connection between two of them. Placed a crimp collar across the break and used a pencil soldering torch from Harbor Freight to run some solder down into the collar connecting and stabilizing the break. Motor test off and on the car were fine. No charge when started, however. Had left the back cover off and connected the jumper across the diode cutout I have installed. Some sparks came from the engine side of the back of the generator and I now have good charge level. Believe polarization was the problem. Another one for the mind file of tips and tricks. Thanks for posting here where we novices can find them.