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#41 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: faucett, mo
Posts: 438
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I have used the jet type job heaters, big draw back is that they are very loud, kerosene really stinks, propane isn't that smelly but will get to you after 8 hours. Barrel stoves are cheap to set up and use if you have a good wood supply but on windy days you can get smoke fumes coming in. I have used one of those infrared overhead heaters but they must be used in a well insulated room to work good.
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#42 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,200
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FYI: Another thing to consider. Burning one gallon of LP or nat gas produces almost 1 gallon of water vapor. If you are using a vent-less heater you are adding a lot of moisture into the building.
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#43 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wilmington, OH/Lakeland, FL
Posts: 988
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#44 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Overland Park, Ks
Posts: 559
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I installed a heat-air conditioner unit works great in all seasons, cant remember size but runs off 220 volt, keeps very comfortable had it for 4 yrs I think I paid $600 to $700 for it
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#45 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Midland Park, NJ
Posts: 4,290
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I really take exception to them being "dangerous'. If you were standing four feet from the unit there's no way your pants can catch fire. If I'm a foot away from the unit I can't feel any direct heat from the unit My unit is about 12 inches from the side of the garage and the side does not get hot at all. There is no flame other then inside the unit.
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#46 |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 2,667
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#47 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Columbus MS
Posts: 241
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As a combined unit; for that kind of money, I'd prefer to do both at one time. Can you get me the unit manufacture, name, size, etc? Many thanks!
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#48 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,639
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Last edited by tubman; 12-16-2017 at 10:16 AM. |
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#49 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,639
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Since I'm stuck in Minnesota for the winter, I decided to buy a 17,000 BTU infrared electric heater to quickly warm my work area. It does this quite well and was not too expensive ($109.95). It does have some disadvantages; first, it needs a 30 AMP 220 volt outlet. Luckily, I have one of those for my welder. The second problem will probably make itself evident when I get my first electric bill. The knock on electric heat has always been the cost; I'm sure I'm in for a dose of reality soon. Oh well, hopefully it's only for this one year.
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#50 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 756
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I used a $10 infrared lamp in $9 reflector socket over my workbench and a pair of coveralls. Keeps your hands/front and small workbench area warm and provides extra light. I also moved it around for working in the cab or under the car.
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#51 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Glens Falls NY
Posts: 1,355
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Electric heat source always the most expensive. Kerosene, even K-1, does not burn completely and deposits an invisible soot in the space (I know this well).
Don't use anything that obtains combustion air from the garage itself. Compared to other gases, gasoline and LP gas fumes are heavier than air and settle to floor level which is why most building codes require a garage attached to to house have its floor level at least 18 inches below the floor level of the house. |
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#52 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,639
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After what "DrBrown" said, I will add again that I have a Carbon Monoxide/Gas Fume detector that plugs into a convenient outlet. It's cheap insurance (though they can be annoying if you want to do "just a short test run" of your car).
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#53 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NE Iowa
Posts: 1,767
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If you have the electricity for it they do make small electric hanging furnaces. You would want insulation though. I use a hot dawg hanging but have natural gas since in town. To late for in floor heat but next time, I do remember froze toes.
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#54 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,639
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Having experienced it several times, I will agree with the assessment that in floor heat is the best way to go. However, it is about the farthest thing you can get when discussing "temp heat".
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#55 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Montrose,CO
Posts: 235
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I’m right in the middle of “Garage Heat 2017”......
100 feet of gas line trench dug 18” deep..... Pipe in and held pressure for a week... Air return plenum built...filters ordered.... Furnace mounted,ready to get the sheet metal guy out here on Monday... Last winter it was no fun trying to get anything done when the shop was 36 degrees ....
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#56 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Montrose,CO
Posts: 235
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Now,,,,how did that happen...????
You get the idea anyway.....
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#57 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Reno
Posts: 171
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I cut a hole in the heater ducting and put in closable vent. Works great in winter and summer for a 4 car garage.
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#58 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Glens Falls NY
Posts: 1,355
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Some low(er) heat/power consumption ideas:
If one has a hot water circulating home heating system it could be relatively easy to extend a supply and return piping to a garage area, incorporating shut-off and diverter/balancing valves .... however don't allow the water in the pipes to freeze. Hot water heating systems normally have a 15 lb or adjustable water pressure reducer at the boiler. This would work well with a ceiling suspended heating unit with electric fan and thermo control. Design your own device .... Got an old car radiator and electric fan ? Not as good .... with a ducted home heating system a supply air duct might be extended to a garage, with shut off/volume control damper, but one would NOT want a return air duct as that could return contaminate air circulating inside the home. Best idea .... put an old semi-worn-out but functioning flatie or diesel outside next to the garage with a small fuel tank. Use some steam hosing (sold by the foot) to connect it to its/a radiator inside the garage, and place a portable 24' box fan to blow air thru the radiator. Fill the flatie with antifreeze. Listen to its music as you work. Tell the wife to wear ear muffs. Idling the engine not good but its like putting a race horse out to pasture. Last edited by Drbrown; 12-16-2017 at 11:42 PM. |
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#59 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Overland Park, Ks
Posts: 559
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ricklove
i have unit mounted 6 ft off floor couldn't find model number it was built by Frigidaire, you should be able to buy at Sams its the largest unit they make for heat/air |
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#60 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 2,550
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I have an old oil furnace from a home in the shop where I work on stuff. It can get the temp up well into the workable range for me. I don't use it a lot. I have to be pretty inspired to get out there some days when its in the minus 20s outside. Also got a space heater. One of those "rocket" deals that burns anything from kerosene to tractor fuel. I'll use it in the big , well ventilated machine shed some. In a smaller, less ventilated shed it produces enough exhaust to make your throat burn after a while. They tell me kerosene burns a little cleaner.
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