What gauge is wire inside ignition cable?

[REByar]

Hi,
While having other engine work done on my 1928 Tudor the mechanic replaced the ignition cable. I am not sure why but he did. I had either an original ignition cable or an old one with just the wire coming out the terminal box end. When I rewired the car 2 years ago I did not change this just replaced the other wiring (dash and lighting harness). The wire coming from the ignition cable to the ignition switch was heavier-like 12ga. But now the replacement ignition cable wire is much smaller- like a 16ga. I understand the wire I had was cloth covered and the new one is not. But still the wire itself appears to be of thinner gauge. I ask this because since getting the car back from his shop I have had the car stop running after about 15-20 min. The lights and horn all work. But after this period I check for a spark and there is no longer one showing. So I was wanted to know what the gauge should be and if this cable is too small could it be heating up the coil which is shutting down the engine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
REB

[Tom Wesenberg]

16 or 14 gauge should work fine. I wonder if the end is screwed too far into the distributor.

[woodiewagon46]

A&L Parts Specialties, has everything you need to rebuild your pop out switch.

[REByar]

Thanks Tom W. I will check to see if the cable is in too far.

REB

[MikeK]

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I'm a little late to this thread, but remember whatever you put inside that popout cable should be capable of surviving repeated heat cycles and withstand 212º+F (100º+C) if you overheat (Never! ).

A sure loser is the thermoplastic trash sold in autoparts stores (melts).

Cross-linked modern automotive cable is iffy- withstands heat but continues to cross-link during repeated heat cycles resulting is brittle cracking.

Household THHN or THWN is good for 90ºC max (194ºF) and that's lower than an occasionally hot Model A head.

There are three types of wire that will work in this app:

SRML, also known as SFF-2, is rated at 150ºC. It has a fiberglass overlay top weave.

TGGT (Teflon Glass, Glass Teflon). Rated for 250ºC.

MGT, up to 450ºC.

You won't get the 3' of properly rated #16 (plenty big for 6 amps) you need off a spool at Home Depot. Buying even a small 25 foot spool on line is ridiculously spendy. So I recommend getting it FOR FREE.

Where: Pop the panels off any junked electric stove and score plenty of pieces long enough for a pop-out cable!

What about silicone lead wire- extremely heat resistant, usually to 500ºF? The problem with this stuff is it has very little cut resistance. OK if it passes your own 300ºF oven test and you do not snag or nick it while fishing it and the requisite additional zinc plated bare steel ground lead inside the no-longer new and smooth inside of the spring cable.

If you do not rebuild the cable as original (with the bare ground wire) make absolutely sure you have an added tranny to frame ground strap or cable. Without it your ignition is subject to the myriad collection of loose and moving contact points that add up to the original ground system for the starter.