Still no spark

[Willynch]

1930 Tudor

Engine cranks when I attempt to start but still no spark. Followed Les Andrews diagnostics for ignition system

I bypassed ignition switch since it is broken. Using "emergency ignition jumper" available at Snyder.

I measure 6 volts at point when opened.

To me this means primary circuit of coil is good.

New coil so I am assuming secondary circuit is ok but not sure. Tried measuring resistance across primary and secondary but not getting reproducible readings. Doing it wrong or my meter is not working.

New condenser

Cleaned all electrical contacts

Checked timing of cam/rotor at TDC

Battery is good.

Placed "polarity and spark" tester in line with distributed cap and high tension wire from coil.

No lights which means no spark ( if I did it right) and suggestion is to review ignition system.

Would appreciate ideas. Thanks

[cjkohnast]

I chased my problem for several months. Some times I had spark and some times not. Car would not start. The bearing was worn so that when I checked the cap I always set it correctly but when I cranked it gap was all over the place. A rebuild solved the problem.

[Sunnybrook Farm]

I like to reference this video when I forget how it all works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbHQ...rIa0r_fFQcz4R0

[mike657894]

turn your meter to continuity and test high tension wire and both parts of cap. On my car i had to replace the wire from key to dizzy.

[1955cj5]

Here is a neat tutorial on model a ignition.

A bad condenser can cause your problem....

http://modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm


.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Are you screwin' the cable TOO DEEP into the distributor???
Bill Threethreads

[Flathead]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Are you screwin' the cable TOO DEEP into the distributor???
Bill Threethreads

I love your comments Bill.

[Willynch]

update.

I checked the coil/condenser on bench top and get spark Also put the "spark polarity" tester in line and it indicated spark and correct polarity.

So I guess if ignition system works on bench; and every thing through starter up to points is working on car does this mean there is a short in the lower distributer body/plate?

Bill Williamson: screwing cord from ingnition swithc (or in my case, the by-pass of my broken ignition swith) in too deep can be an issue? Ill back it out a bit and try again.

Thanks

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Willynch

update.

I checked the coil/condenser on bench top and get spark Also put the "spark polarity" tester in line and it indicated spark and correct polarity.

So I guess if ignition system works on bench; and every thing through starter up to points is working on car does this mean there is a short in the lower distributer body/plate?

Bill Williamson: screwing cord from ingnition swithc (or in my case, the by-pass of my broken ignition swith) in too deep can be an issue? Ill back it out a bit and try again.

Thanks

The ignition cable screwed too far in can cause the lower plate to short out against the distributor body.

[Bob C]

"Bill Williamson: screwing cord from ingnition swithc (or in my case, the by-pass of my broken ignition swith) in too deep can be an issue? Ill back it out a bit and try again."

Yes, if it is screwed in to far it can ground the lower plate to the distributor body.

Bob

[Mike V. Florida]

Try cranking it by hand. Your battery at 6 volts without the starter but it may drop under load and the ign will not work.

[H. L. Chauvin]

1. After insuring that one has a fully charged battery, remove the coil wire from the top of the distributor cap and lay this negative (-) bottom metal end of the coil wire to be fixed within about 1/4" of the positive (+) engine head or engine head nut, thus NOT allowing this "SHOCKING" negative (-) metal tip to contact positive (+) metal anywhere on the engine.

2. Removing the distributor cap, distributor body, and rotor.

3. Push spark lever upwards, (retarded), and turn ignition switch "ON".

4. If necessary, use a hand crank to rotate engine such that ignition points are "closed".

5. With a wooden or plastic handle screw driver, (to avoid "SHOCKING"), open the Closed points, where a spark should jump from the end of the (-) coil wire to the (+) metal on the engine.

6. If "NO" spark, with distributor retarded, definite electrical problem and engine will "NEVER" start with distributor retarded.

7. If "SPARK" repeat above steps 4. through 7. with spark lever downwards, (advanced), and at several locations between up & down.

8. If "NO" spark at all spark lever locations, definite electrical problem and engine will "NEVER" start.

9. If "SPARK" at all spark lever locations, distributor electrical system is good to go.

10. Turn headlights ON; and crank engine. If lights go very dim or out, starter may be grounding, weak battery, or battery connections not clean.

11. After performing above test, let us know what happens.

12. Was taught this test by my father & uncle who began working on cars years ago in about 1917 .... still works "every single time" for me for the past (60) years.

[Willynch]

Success!

I backed the cable out from the lower distributor as Bill Williamson suggested.

I guess it was grounding out there.

Go figure.

[Big hammer]

Good for you! :-) Thanks Bill W, someone did as you said!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Once Minerva warmed up, she DIED & I had to crank her into a parking space @ the Market! Screwed the cable out 1/4 turn & she was OFF & GOING! I "guess" something EXPANDED when she got WARM???---Another time she went "PFFFFT"--Found a little BLACK Beetle, on top of the carb NEEDLE/SEAT, WEIRD shit happens!!!
Bill Threethreads

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Good for you! :-) Thanks Bill W, someone did as you said!

B.H,
OFTEN, I try to help & NOBODY replies "JACK SHIT"
Blunt Bill W. (The Dog AGREES! He's my Fan Club!)

[Joe/Ct]

Our roadster was running just fine (both parked and while driving) for over an hour, but just stopped all of a sudden while on the road. I checked for spark, but had none. I had recently changed the condenser (that morning), so that doesn't seem to be the problem.

I will try screwing out the cable tomorrow, but doesn't sound like that's the problem (as it ran fine for an hour before stopping).

I did notice that the coil was too hot to touch.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Joe/Ct

Our roadster was running just fine (both parked and while driving) for over an hour, but just stopped all of a sudden while on the road. I checked for spark, but had none. I had recently changed the condenser (that morning), so that doesn't seem to be the problem.

I will try screwing out the cable tomorrow, but doesn't sound like that's the problem (as it ran fine for an hour before stopping).

I did notice that the coil was too hot to touch.

Coil too hot to touch means it's on full time, so between the coil + terminal and points, it must be grounding out. My repro ignition switch was grounding on the gas tank one day, and luckily I just happened to touch the coil when the key was off. Because it was getting warm I knew something was wrong, so I removed the instrument panel and saw the rub mark.

[Willynch]

well in retrospect, i wonder if the grounding at the distributer was the issue all along. Or at least a ground issue of some kind

Basically I changed the coil and condenser and it is running again.

I learned a lot. I ended up testing the old coil and condesner on my workbench (one of the things I learned) and they both work so that was not the original issue.

I thought that maybe it was the ignition switch, which I then proceeded to break as I was trying to decide if that was the issue. Probably wasn't but now I know how to replace that.

When I eventually did get spark,(coil wire 1/4 inch from head nut) it was after I improved the ground connection to the frame.

Perhaps that was the culprit.

Either way, it was fun to figure it out, in a painful sort of way. I barely had to use any of those words

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Willynch

well in retrospect, i wonder if the grounding at the distributer was the issue all along. Or at least a ground issue of some kind

Basically I changed the coil and condenser and it is running again.

I learned a lot. I ended up testing the old coil and condesner on my workbench (one of the things I learned) and they both work so that was not the original issue.

I thought that maybe it was the ignition switch, which I then proceeded to break as I was trying to decide if that was the issue. Probably wasn't but now I know how to replace that.

When I eventually did get spark,(coil wire 1/4 inch from head nut) it was after I improved the ground connection to the frame.

Perhaps that was the culprit.

Either way, it was fun to figure it out, in a painful sort of way. I barely had to use any of those words

Thanks for the GOOD Report, I appreciate it
I HOPE others take note of this THREAD, it's a common mistake to thread the cable into the distributor TOO far & SHORT it out. Just start it & screw it in ONLY 3 threads or so!
Also, many are reluctant to pull the UPPER dist plate & check the TESTY pig tail wire. It's NOT SPOOKY & catalogs have EXPLODED views of the INNARDS. Find a cheep OLD distributor, to practice on.
Bill W.