no spark

[Willynch]

1930 Tudor.

No spark. Engine will crank with attempted ignition start but not turnover. Ive tried hand cranking but that has not worked (Although, even when the car was in running condition, I could never hand crank the car so this does not mean much for this current problem)

Went through Les Andrews method in "Trouble Shooting/Diagnostics"

I am pretty sure ignition primary circuit works. With ignition switch turned on and points open, there is 6 volts at the point arm. I then tested Terminal Box and Ammeter, as Les describes and these also "passed"

High tension wire from coil to distributer cap looked frayed at cap end. I replaced wire, cap and got new coil.

Still no spark.

I tried having some one turn ignition and try to start as I held high tension wire near head bolt. Zero spark.

I also tried; ignition on; points closed; high tension wire near head bolt and then open/close point with screwdriver as Les Andrews describes. No spark.

I bought the new coil from Snyders. Looks exactly like previous coil with "+" and "-" labeled. I hooked the new up the same was as the old coil. I did not check polarity.

If it was a condenser problem alone, I would expect to still be able to get spark but maybe I am wrong. I have not replaced the condenser

Thanks for any suggestions

[Bob Bidonde]

The ignition will not work (no spark) without a good condenser.

[Art Newland]

Make sure the distributor body is grounded well.

[160B]

Follow this guideline "On The Road Diagnostic" published in The Restorer Magazine Jul/Aug 1999

[Mike V. Florida]

This is my generic no spark troubleshooting list,

No Spark
Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at the switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.


Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If the voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check if the connector from the ignition switch screwed in too far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?

Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If you do, the points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.

[Willynch]

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Mike V,

Thanks so much.

I think I have dome much of what you suggest.

Until last night when I broke the ignition switch ("mad face emoji"), it was working. When "on" there was voltage of 6 through out terminal block up to the open point arm. With point arm closed, it was grounded and voltage was "0).

I broke the starter switch because I decided to put new wires from dash to terminal block as well as terminal block to cut-out/starter. These wires looked pretty bad; frayed in places; barely attached in others.

So of course, I have no created a new problem (busted original style pop-out ignition switch). Or, I guess I can looked at it as a new opportunity to learn more about the car and have an additional project-pass the starter switch so I can con

Either way, couple of new questions:

How can I by-pass the ignition switch so I can continue to de-bug the "no spark" problem? The armored cable to the lower plate of the distributer seems welded on. I am afraid to bust something else in efforts to fix then "no spark"

Next; where can I get a good "pop-out" style ignition switch? This one seemed original (not that I can tell for sure). I have looked on line and most ignition switches I have found are not "pop-out" only "look alike".

Lastly; back to the "no spark". I guess I can replace the condenser but this also seems welded in place. Where should I get one of these??

Thanks so much for taking the time to offer the detailed reply/advice

[Mr. J]

When I was getting my a started up I ran into a no spark situation, new coil, new condenser, new battery, but still no spark, came down to tracing continuity and found that my points were not making up, had to take a file to them and it fired right up. If I was you I would check continuity starting from the points back with a multimeter, unhook the battery and disconnect the coil wire going to the switch and check and see if it's grounding with the points closed and then check with the points open, if it ground's with the point's open then take the plate off and disconnect the wire going to the points take the other plate out and put a piece of cardboard between the ignition wire coming into the distributor and the shafts to keep it from grounding and check continuity between the wire and the block, if it grounds it could be a bad wire from the switch to distributor, but keep checking on back to the coil to make sure it's not grounding out somewhere else, it might help and it might not, but it's what I done to find my probelm

[Mike V. Florida]

....

Originally Posted by Willynch

Either way, couple of new questions:

How can I by-pass the ignition switch so I can continue to de-bug the "no spark" problem? The armored cable to the lower plate of the distributer seems welded on. I am afraid to bust something else in efforts to fix then "no spark"

you need to remove the armored cable from the distributor. Soak the connection with penetrating spray then apply heat to the area, wait to cool, soak the connection area apply heat to the area, wait to cool. try to remove.

Next; where can I get a good "pop-out" style ignition switch? This one seemed original (not that I can tell for sure). I have looked on line and most ignition switches I have found are not "pop-out" only "look alike".

A lot of people (me included) have the look alike pop out switch. Originals rebuilt are available but you need to check with the guys that rebuild them Dick Crabtree 605-487-7229 comes to mind

Lastly; back to the "no spark". I guess I can replace the condenser but this also seems welded in place. Where should I get one of these??

Any of the vendors should be able to get you the one that A and L has made.

Thanks so much for taking the time to offer the detailed reply/advice