The Ford Barn

Mr. J · 08-09-2017, 05:31 PM

So you can't get to it from the tranny side?

Synchro909 · 08-09-2017, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. J

So you can't get to it from the tranny side?

I'd go along with the advice to pull the engine. I think it will be easier in the long run. To get to the gasket (or where it should be!), the clutch and flywheel assembly has to come off along with the flywheel housing. The flywheel is HEAVY. You might get them out OK but putting them back while laying on your back will make you wish you had pulled the engine. You might even give up and do it anyway.

1crosscut · 08-09-2017, 06:55 PM

As to your running hot.

Make sure the timing is set correctly. Start by making sure the arm on the back side of the distributor body travels fully side to side in the slot. If not rectify that first then re-set the timing and see if that stops the overheating.
Are you sure it is actually running hot? Have you checked the water temperature with a thermometer? An inexpensive meat thermometer dipped into the coolant is one of the best ways to actually know what the temperature is.

If re-setting the timing does not correct it...
Check to see that the fins have a good connection to the tubes.
There is not super thick paint on the tubes and fins.
Fan belt is turning the fan. (Do not get it too tight)

If those are good then...
Pull the radiator out and clean it by turning it upside down and back flushing it to get rust flakes that may be sitting on top of the tubes out.
After giving it a good rinsing in all directions plug the bottom tube and the overflow tube. I use a piece of scrap inner tube and a hose clamp for the large outlet and a small piece of dowel or such pushed into the overflow tube to plug it. Put in 1 gallon of undiluted Simple Green in and replace the cap. Invert it several times a day for a few days to a week. This will get the grease and grime out of it. If you had a bunch of rust come out in the initial flush you may need to put in something to dissolve that. Others will have suggestions for that.

While the radiator is out put a garden hose at full bore into the inlet on the side of the engine along with air from your compressor and flush the block out.

All worth a try as a new radiator is pretty spendy.

Mr. J · 08-09-2017, 08:12 PM

Thank you, I will try that, I hadn't thought to use a meat thermometer I'll try that tomorrow if I get home in time, as for the carb leak the two half's are warped and the float was cracked I sanded the bottom half with 800 grit sand paper against a 1in. Sheet of metal I got it flat, but I don't know how to sand the top half as I don't have a mill to set it in, I read somewhere that you could put two gaskets in and take up the space, and as for the oil leak, could I clean up the outside and put a bead of high temp rtv down where the two meet?

Bill G · 08-09-2017, 06:36 PM

Even dropping the tranny without pulling the engine involves dropping the whole rear-end, and I understand the rear spring makes that a very difficult process.

I asked the same question and went through this process just to replace clutch and pedal bushings. I also replaced the whole clutch, but it involved an engine pull to change out the clutch. One friend said in his mind it was 50/50 as to whether to pull the engine or rear end. Two others said hands down, engine is easier.

I have never dealt with the rear, but threads on this forum indicate that it might be a little above my pay grade.

08-09-2017, 05:31 PM	#1
Mr. J Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Southwest Virginia Posts: 25	Re: Basic advice So you can't get to it from the tranny side?

08-09-2017, 06:55 PM	#3
1crosscut Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska Posts: 2,011	Re: Basic advice As to your running hot. Make sure the timing is set correctly. Start by making sure the arm on the back side of the distributor body travels fully side to side in the slot. If not rectify that first then re-set the timing and see if that stops the overheating. Are you sure it is actually running hot? Have you checked the water temperature with a thermometer? An inexpensive meat thermometer dipped into the coolant is one of the best ways to actually know what the temperature is. If re-setting the timing does not correct it... Check to see that the fins have a good connection to the tubes. There is not super thick paint on the tubes and fins. Fan belt is turning the fan. (Do not get it too tight) If those are good then... Pull the radiator out and clean it by turning it upside down and back flushing it to get rust flakes that may be sitting on top of the tubes out. After giving it a good rinsing in all directions plug the bottom tube and the overflow tube. I use a piece of scrap inner tube and a hose clamp for the large outlet and a small piece of dowel or such pushed into the overflow tube to plug it. Put in 1 gallon of undiluted Simple Green in and replace the cap. Invert it several times a day for a few days to a week. This will get the grease and grime out of it. If you had a bunch of rust come out in the initial flush you may need to put in something to dissolve that. Others will have suggestions for that. While the radiator is out put a garden hose at full bore into the inlet on the side of the engine along with air from your compressor and flush the block out. All worth a try as a new radiator is pretty spendy. __________________ Dave / Lincoln Nebraska

08-09-2017, 08:12 PM	#4
Mr. J Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Southwest Virginia Posts: 25	Re: Basic advice Thank you, I will try that, I hadn't thought to use a meat thermometer I'll try that tomorrow if I get home in time, as for the carb leak the two half's are warped and the float was cracked I sanded the bottom half with 800 grit sand paper against a 1in. Sheet of metal I got it flat, but I don't know how to sand the top half as I don't have a mill to set it in, I read somewhere that you could put two gaskets in and take up the space, and as for the oil leak, could I clean up the outside and put a bead of high temp rtv down where the two meet?

08-09-2017, 06:36 PM	#5
Bill G Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 1,062	Re: Basic advice Even dropping the tranny without pulling the engine involves dropping the whole rear-end, and I understand the rear spring makes that a very difficult process. I asked the same question and went through this process just to replace clutch and pedal bushings. I also replaced the whole clutch, but it involved an engine pull to change out the clutch. One friend said in his mind it was 50/50 as to whether to pull the engine or rear end. Two others said hands down, engine is easier. I have never dealt with the rear, but threads on this forum indicate that it might be a little above my pay grade.