cast iron drums ??

[H. L. Chauvin]

The late Mr. Mel Gross told me he saw many swage wheel stud disasters come into his cast iron drum business ...... after 20 years of Model A Forum Messages and reading about all of the Model A engine re-building disasters ..... why would drums be different?

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

The late Mr. Mel Gross told me he saw many swage wheel stud disasters come into his cast iron drum business ...... after 20 years of Model A Forum Messages and reading about all of the Model A engine re-building disasters ..... why would drums be different?

Amen to that!

The process of installing new studs is truly a lost art. If it is not done correctly and with the proper tooling and support fixtures on a 20 ton press the probability of inflicting damage to both the drum and the hub is very high.

This is especially true when installing new cast iron drums. The lug is like a rivet and it must swaged (crushed) properly so that it does not put any pressure on the drum otherwise the drum will crack around the holes.

Care must be taken when removing the old drum so as not to warp the flange on the hub. A cutting tool in generally used to cut away the shoulder on the lug created during the swaging process before it is pressed out using a correct holding fixture.

It is also important to use correct new studs. The length and diameter are critical. And there are various sizes out there.

My advice to anyone contemplating purchasing new cast iron drums is to contact Randy Gross. He has the drums, the correct studs The correct tooling and fixtures, and a lifetime of knowledge about Model A brakes and the swaging process. His prices are reasonable and he is a nice fellow to do business with.

Randy is located in Southern California. Cell 714-292-8660

Tom Endy

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

Amen to that!

The process of installing new studs is truly a lost art. If it is not done correctly and with the proper tooling and support fixtures on a 20 ton press the probability of inflicting damage to both the drum and the hub is very high.

This is especially true when installing new cast iron drums. The lug is like a rivet and it must swaged (crushed) properly so that it does not put any pressure on the drum otherwise the drum will crack around the holes.

Care must be taken when removing the old drum so as not to warp the flange on the hub. A cutting tool in generally used to cut away the shoulder on the lug created during the swaging process before it is pressed out using a correct holding fixture.

It is also important to use correct new studs. The length and diameter are critical. And there are various sizes out there.

My advice to anyone contemplating purchasing new cast iron drums is to contact Randy Gross. He has the drums, the correct studs The correct tooling and fixtures, and a lifetime of knowledge about Model A brakes and the swaging process. His prices are reasonable and he is a nice fellow to do business with.

Randy is located in Southern California. Cell 714-292-8660

Tom Endy

Tom, you made the comment regarding various length hub bolts (I think you used the term studs), and I do agree with you that we find different lengths that do not match the factory print that I have. The reasoning that I assumed there was a difference is due to the extra thickness of the cast drum in the bolt area as opposed to the thickness of the stamped steel drum. Since I did not know the answer to the original poster's question, I did not say anything however I suspect the different manufacturers have a different thickness in that area, and that would be the way to differentiate between the manufacturers. I have always subscribed to the therory of using the hub bolts manufactured by the same one who is having the drums made as they are likely meant to be used together.

I am unaware anyone is manufacturing hub bolts to the factory specifications. Do you know of a repro supplier of those?