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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
Posts: 1,977
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Thanks Tom I was looking for those pictures and you already knew what to do.
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Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group. |
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
Posts: 2,365
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I'd like you to verify top dead center with the piston up on compression,and double check dimple in cam gear.
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#23 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, CA
Posts: 187
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#24 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, CA
Posts: 187
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Probably can't get back on this until the weekend, but will update when I can. |
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#25 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 5,945
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What is the point gap? If you have your points set at .018" your ignition timing will be different will be different than if the points are set at .022". And the rotor will be in a different position when the points open. Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 05-16-2017 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Oops, Gap should be .018" & .022", not .18" & .22" |
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#26 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 970
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#27 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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You can easily tell if you are real close to proper timing by moving the spark lever up and down. When it's up, the engine should run slow and steady, and as you pull the lever down the engine should increase in speed until about 2/3 of the way down. After that it will be too advance and no longer increase in speed and actually start to buck a little. |
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#28 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 5,945
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Now I wonder if it is the same with a stock distributor cam as it would be with a Stipe "Racing" distributor cam that has more duration. ![]() ![]() Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 05-16-2017 at 09:57 AM. Reason: Add verbage. |
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#29 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Just be sure any freeplay is on the leading side of the cam when setting timing. In other words give the rotor a light twist clockwise to be sure the slop is on the leading side. The plugs fire the instant the points open, and the rotor turns CCW, so if you are hand cranking the engine to find TDC and go slightly past the dimple, then back it up, be sure to go back more than just the dimple so you are coming forward again to find the dimple. This will keep the freeplay on the leading side of the points opening. To check for wear on the distributor shaft tangs, just give the rotor a light twist back and forth to see how much it moves. |
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#30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 1,163
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I'm not sure I have the entire chain of events, but IF the car ran great just before the timing gear broke, and IF the only think that has been done to the car since that is the replacement of the timing gear, THEN the timing gear is off by a tooth.
If ignition timing, point gap, carb, valves, or other parts were also replaced or adjusted, then all bets are off.
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All steel from pedal to wheel |
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#31 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 1,940
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I agree with Dick if the only thing changed was the timing gear and it then ran bad then the timing gear is off.
One easy thing to check that I have not seen mentioned is checking the flexible wire under the distributor plate to make sure it is not frayed, broken or shorting out. This will cause loss of power and back fire under load.
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Dave / Lincoln Nebraska |
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#32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, CA
Posts: 187
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A bit of Seafoam in the gas seems to have fixed things up.???
It sat all week with a fresh gas and Seafoam concoction...started up and ran fine yesterday. I'm a happy camper. I really didn't want to pull the front of the motor apart again. |
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#33 |
Senior Member
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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