Exhaust Manifold to Tailpipe gasket

[DaWizard]

Hey thanks for all your opinions.

Ya know, I thought you didn't need any input from me as it seems you all know it all, and all the responses just confirmed it.

It was Real, and Fun, just not real fun.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

Hey thanks for all your opinions.

Ya know, I thought you didn't need any input from me as it seems you all know it all, and all the responses just confirmed it.

It was Real, and Fun, just not real fun.

Well this is a Forum isn't it?

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

Hey thanks for all your opinions.

Ya know, I thought you didn't need any input from me as it seems you all know it all, and all the responses just confirmed it.

It was Real, and Fun, just not real fun.

Seems like you made a simple job difficult for no good reason. Wayne

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

Hey thanks for all your opinions.

Ya know, I thought you didn't need any input from me as it seems you all know it all, and all the responses just confirmed it.

It was Real, and Fun, just not real fun.

If your manifold and your exhaust pipe is NOS and perfect and the clamp is put on right side up then it should not leak and you won't need a gasket. A bead of gook is a good idea though. A lot of people don't have trouble with exhaust leaks.
But if you are like a lot of us with worn or damaged manifold surfaces and repro exhaust pipes that are not perfect then you may have leaks. That is me.

I think your idea of using a tin can has a couple of drawbacks. As mentioned already, rust and thickness of the metal will become a problem very quickly. Also, the manifold and pipe have different inside diameters so if you weld the seams together ahead of time the sleeve will not fit snugly. I think you will be making extra problems for yourself.

My method that worked well was to get an exhaust pipe reducing adapter that fit snugly down into the header pipe and also up into the manifold. I took a length of small diameter glass fiber wood stove door gasket, and tied it into a loop that would fit snugly over the pipe adapter. I trimmed the upper section of the adapter so that only about 1/2" extended up into the manifold. Then all that was left to do was to slide the header pipe in place and clamp it tight. The gasket totally sealed off any leakage. Problem solved.