Installing emergency brake return springs

[IndyA]

Originally Posted by wrndln

I know this has been covered extensively, but I have been trying to install the springs on the emergency brake levers. Unfortunately, the service brakes and emergency brakes are installed on the rearend and all I need to do to finish is install the spring(s). I made a hook tool and I can get the spring within about 3/8" from slipping around the lever. However the spring hangs up at this point and no matter how hard I pull the spring it wont move any farther. It appears the turns on the spring are getting tight on the housing. I bought the springs at Bratton's, so I believe it is not some cheap, non-fitting spring. I also know I have the correct spring on the correct backing plate (checked several picture of the springs for right and left). I know there is a way to install the spring(s) as the the backing plates are assembled, but I would rather not disassemble everything on the plates. Is there a way to just remove the cotter key and pin on the emergency brake shaft and connect the return spring(s) and rotate the shaft back and reinstall the pin and cotter key? Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, I have search the past posts and have not seen the spring binding problem like I have - just using the hook.
Rusty Nelson

The Two-man approach to loading the Parking Brake Return Spring

With the help of another pair of hands, I was able to load the Parking Brake Return Spring in my '29 Model A in about 12 minutes but only after spending hours reading (and trying to understand) other threads, and making a few tools. Other than removing the wheel (so a human head can get above the drum ) and removing the e-brake rod from the cross shaft and the lever, you don't have to remove anything else for this approach.

As mentioned many times the springs have a "left" and a "right". The bent leg of spring rests on the top of service brake cam housing and adjacent to the inner side of the backing plate and the end of that leg points toward the front of the car. The hooked end of the spring curls around emergency lever (above the pinch bolt assembly) with the sides of that hook opening to the rear of the car.

If you haven't done so, remove the old spring (if you had one) and the lever. The lever is held by a "pinch bolt" and a small crescent-shaped Woodruff key that nests in the top side of the shaft.

Two tools are made; a notched screwdriver blade (previously described by others). And a 8" wooden stick (approximately 1"x 3/4" or more) with several angled slots about an inch apart and 3" or 4" from either end of the stick which lead into the center of the stick and ending at a 1/8" diameter hole which runs thru the stick and which is roughly in the center of the stick - this arrangement allows you to change the locations of the cord without having to retie anything. Take a 10-12"" cord (1/8" in dia. or more) which will slip thru the slot and nest in the hole with knots tied in three of four locations along the string and an inch or so apart. These knots serve as an anchor to various string lengths. At one end of the string tie a loop about the diameter of a penny. I will attempt to include a photo of the "tools".

One person gets under the car to handle the notched screw driver... the other "installer" is beside the drum with their head between the top of the drum and the upper inner side of the fender well and mans the looped string and stick.

Place the Return Spring (with no tension on the spring) over the Lever Arm shaft (with the bent spring arm resting in it's designated spot) then place the lever arm on the lever shaft and engaged with the Woodruff Key. Do not attach the Pinch Bolt. The notched screwdriver then raises the hooked arm above the pinch bolt hole in the lever and held in that position while the pinch bolt is then screwed tight against the toggle lever shaft. The string loop is then placed in the spring hook and the screwdriver pushes the hooked end of the spring straight up as far as possible while at the same time the "hands" holding the looped cord is pulling the spring hook toward the front of the car.

Usually, the leg of the hook will catch on the Lever and a little jar with a screw driver will center the spring hook with the lever arm. Don't be surprised that you'll have to cut the string loop... (notice the photo) it's captured between the spring and toggle lever. Hope this helps another mechanic ???