Crankshaft end play

[PC/SR]

Just measured a brass one, and the thrust face thickness is .110. Call Brattons or Snyders tomorrow and I am sure either would measure what they have in stock for you. They are both good and helpful folks.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by PC/SR

Just measured a brass one, and the thrust face thickness is .110. Call Brattons or Snyders tomorrow and I am sure either would measure what they have in stock for you. They are both good and helpful folks.

That might not be what it is in the block. The one I got also measured about that also. But the only way to tell for sure is put it in the block.

[forever4]

For your entertainment:

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by forever4

Modified on the left, Stock block section on the right.

Yes and you can see the gap between the block and insert with the thrust inserted in the block. That is why I said you will not know until you check it in the block.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by forever4

Problem is if previous old time engine rebuilders reground the crank cheeks and widened the journal and just made it up with more babbitt. Then the brass insert might be a little on the small side.

That is true, it is alsays a crap shoot on these engines. I run into problems all the time where the guy before put the crank in the wrong location. Some guys locate off the old main bores.

We had a block not long ago that had cylinders were bored .020 over. We though this is going to be a good one. The only problem was they were bored on a angle. We only had to go to .080 over to clean it up.

[forever4]

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Originally Posted by George Miller

That is true, it is alsays a crap shoot on these engines. I run into problems all the time where the guy before put the crank in the wrong location. Some guys locate off the old main bores.

We had a block not long ago that had cylinders were bored .020 over. We though this is going to be a good one. The only problem was they were bored on a angle. We only had to go to .080 over to clean it up.

George,
See the note in the lower left. That rearmain bolt hole and the one on the front main were the primary datums for all the crank alignment, cylinder bores, stud hole locations, etc.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by forever4

Here is a link to some ideas on locating the bar.
The kwik-way uses the bearing bolt holes.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/boringbarfixtures.htm

The K-W bar and block fixture shown can be used with my Lempco to finish semi-finished main caps only, perhaps like what Bill Barlow may do?

Use the K-W fixtures to locate the bar to the block section while in the Lempco frame. They are both 1.25 dia.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/lempcoboring.htm

Thanks for the info. I have a home made boring bar. I use the camshaft bore and pan rail on the front. Ford machined bore for oil slinger seal on the rear. It has always been right on. But I might look into the info from you.