Model A starter

[GasWorksGarage]

So does anyone have a diagram for inside the contact box on a model A starter?

[Bob C]

Are you asking about the starter switch?

Bob

[GasWorksGarage]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Are you asking about the starter switch?

Bob

yes that sits on top of the starter

[tbirdtbird]

Inside, a moveable contact makes connection with a copper button in the starter case when you step on the starter pedal. The copper button is wired to the field windings. The moveable contact is spring loaded so that when you release the pedal, the contact springs open, and the starter stops spinning

Thus electricity from the battery can be connected and un-connected to the starter windings. Quite simple actually. Was the standard method for a long long time for nearly all makes of vintage cars

[Jacksonlll]

Take it apart and you will find that it is very simple. The only critical part is the isolation of the hot circuit. Big current here. You don't want any shorts to ground. Could ruin your whole day.

[C26Pinelake]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

take it off and turn it upside down and you will see how basic it is. Wayne

[GasWorksGarage]

Well I took mine apart because it stopped working. I took sand paper and cleaned the contacts. while doing this a cross shaped piece fell out I put it in where I thought it goes but apparently I am wrong. That is why I was wanting an exploded view.

[JBill]

Also note the insulating gasket between the starter and the switch body.

[SeaSlugs]

Cross shaped piece? I dont remember there ever being a cross shaped piece in a stock switch...


Speaking of amps does anyone know what a Model A starter draws amp wise on a stock system?

[Cape Codder]

Don't know if I would call it a cross shaped piece, but isn't there a small part that goes in the bottom of the rod which in turn pushes onto the spring loaded brass contact piece?

[5lugnuts]

The cross looking piece might be a piece of dried leather that goes in the end of the push rod. It pushes against the bronze flat piece (spring) that makes contact between the battery and the starter. High amp negative battery cable. I had to replace mine because of deterioration. I used the shaft of a nylon bolt with the head cut off if memory is correct.

[700rpm]

Cape Codder is closest to the right answer. It is part of the activation/push rod setup, but I don't know how to explain it, and I don't have a photo or diagram. All I can say is, don't toss it. It's part of the switch.

[Bob C]

This link shows a breakdown of the starter and switch.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Co...Motor-7019.pdf

Bob

[H. L. Chauvin]

Maybe ............ your Model A & starter switch came from a Monastery ..... hence, the "Cross."

But on a more serious note, a descriptive attempt to echo the above may or may not assist:

Some starter switches had an internal non-conductive fiber "T" where the "longer" vertical part of the "T" was inserted upwards into the lower end of the metal cylindrical tube like starter switch plunger.

(The other upper end of this switch's plunger is threaded to receive the threaded starter rod.)

The lower horizontal part of this fiber "T" contacted the starter switch's non-ferrous movable blade down below.

Because the starter switch plunger is grounded, this "T" insulates the cylindrical metal plunger when it contacts the "hot" blade below.

Then when the starter switch plunger is depressed, it pushes the "hot" blade downward to contact the button on top of the starter which electrically energized the starter.

Some new starter switches have white "Delrin" plastic "T's" in lieu of fiber "T's".

Other than that, if incorrectly described, you may need to "Cross-Reference" your cross with all of the above .... or call your local Monastery.

[GasWorksGarage]

here is a picture of the " cross" piece, also there wasn't a gasket so I will make one.

[GasWorksGarage]

I got it thanks for the link Bob, and thanks to all for the help!

[Y-Blockhead]

Your "T" (Plunger Button, part #35 in Snyder's drawing) isolates the plunger from the Starter Switch Contractor (part #31).

[H. L. Chauvin]

And in general, FWIW:

The new starter switches offered today usually need some metal shaping work around the hole that receives plunger to make them operate correctly.

Main problem is, because of an incorrectly manufactured plunger angle, the plunger hangs up & remains "depressed"; hence, after the engine starts, the starter continues to rotate.

Not too difficult to fix with a little patience and a round file; however, many times it was also recommended herein to try to obtain original starter switches to avoid this very costly starter problem.

[100IH]

All correct, except the switch to starter body is not for electrical insulation. The 4 screws holding the switch on ground the switch cover to the chassis ground; the starter itself.

[midgetracer]

The gasket between the starter switch and the starter was only used on the early cars. None is needed on the later A's. I am not sure of the exact date when it was dropped, but if yours does not have one, it is probably not needed.