37 Swing out windshield

[Mark's 37]

Finally and carefully pried and coaxed the swing out windshield today. Thought it was probably caulked closed decades ago but just a petrified seal. No rust anywhere and the crank, hinges, etc. work fine. Any recommendations on where to get the best seal? Thanks.

[40cpe]

The Bob Drake seal has moulded corners and many think it fits better. I have a Carpenter seal and at first it didn't seal well. After much trial and error I got the frame adjusted in the hole and it works well. The goal was to eliminate visible air gaps and wind whistles. I don't know if any seal will stop all the water all the time. I bought a Drake seal before I got this one adjusted and it's still in the box. If I remember correctly, the Carpenter seal was $20 and the Drake seal was $50.

Your old seal is probably rock hard by now. Devise whatever tool you must to get ALL the old seal out of the groove.

Knowing all you have been through with that car, the seal will be a breeze.

[petehoovie]

Mark, how's the engine doing since the rebuild???

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Mark, how's the engine doing since the rebuild???

Runs great. No leaks and stays cool. Nuthin' but fun.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Mark's 37

Runs great. No leaks and stays cool. Nuthin' but fun.

You 'Da Man', Mark!!!

[348Agasser]

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I posted a similar problem...how does windshield seal mount? Is it glued or streched around frame?

[40cpe]

There is a groove in the windshield frame that accepts a lip on the seal. The groove must be clean and free of all the old seal in order for the new seal to install correctly. Use or devise whatever you need to get all the old hard or gummy seal out. Don't stretch the new seal on installation or it will be too long and you'll have to remove it and start over.

[alanwoodieman]

most of the time just fits into the groove--which must be really clean. I have had to glue the corners on a repro frame to get it to stay in. the original 36 with a drake seal fits like a glove-that is unless you are oj!!

[banjoQ]

Mark- I have a similar situation with a 37' truck cab. Could you describe how you went about getting your windshield open? My regulator is reasonably free of rust and the hinges look very good but the seal looks like dinosaur skin. Played with it in the past and could not get the regulator to turn, probably due to seal stuck in place. Not intending to hijack this thread but an account of your experience would be helpful. Thanks, Q

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by banjoQ

Mark- I have a similar situation with a 37' truck cab. Could you describe how you went about getting your windshield open? My regulator is reasonably free of rust and the hinges look very good but the seal looks like dinosaur skin. Played with it in the past and could not get the regulator to turn, probably due to seal stuck in place. Not intending to hijack this thread but an account of your experience would be helpful. Thanks, Q

I used an Exacto knife, the small one, to begin to slice through the gasket going around the windshield. Painstakingly, without scratching the paint. This took much patience and time. The old gasket was very hard and it took a lot of pressure on the knife, without breaking the blade, be careful. I cut about two inches at a time and my hands were sore that night. Then using a flat blade screwdriver placed under the lip of the windshield frame and a thin piece of wood as a fulcrum against the painted body to gently start prying along the frame every couple inches. Just a little prying at a time, not trying to break it free all at once. Doing this and returning to use the Exacto knife around the frame many times. Eventually one portion would come loose and then work outward along the frame from there. Most likely it won't be stuck to the body all around the frame and there will be sections that will separate more easily. I'm cleaning the old gasket material from the frame and body now. Again difficult and tedious work. I received the new seal from Early Ford Parts in San Dimas, Ca. today. It is not the Bob Drake piece with molded corners. Charged me 30 bucks and it is manufactured by Vintique. Not so sure about how it will do but will know more after I get the frame cleaned out. I have seen the gasket from other vendors at $20. Meanwhile will look for a Drake seal on Ebay or elsewhere. Being "temporarily" discontinued means they won't be available anytime soon from Drake.

Also, I sprayed some Kroil around the outside of the frame and car body several weeks ago but don't think it did much good.

[Mark's 37]

For getting the rock hard seal out of the frame groove, etc. I used the knife shown below. I heated the end with a propane torch cherry red and used it carefully to cut through and scrape the seal a few inches each time reheating it. Got to be very careful as the knife will obviously catch and you need to pull on it pretty hard at times so be mindful that it could/will slip and damage the paint. I worked on it for a few hours today and only halfway done.

[banjoQ]

Thanks Mark for the reply. Sounds like you have to commit to this before you start. Your description sounds like the old seal will be destroyed getting it open.As for the bead in the frame, would this be best done with windshield removed altogether? Your explanation sounds like you are removing it while still mounted to the car. Just thinking it through. Thanks again.

[Mark's 37]

I decided to try removing the seal with the windshield still mounted on the car. I would rather not remove it and risk getting it to fit correctly again. Sometimes it is better to leave it as it is if possible. So far it looks like it will be successful. The old seal is totally disintegrated now. It was unusable and removing it destroys it.