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06-10-2016, 09:16 AM | #1 |
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Location: Columbia, KY
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Chatter Rod Removal
Can someone discuss the process of removing the chatter rod frame attachment? Has any one pulled the block forward enough to clear the rod going through the block attachment hole?
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06-10-2016, 10:20 AM | #2 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Moving the engine forward is not a viable solution in my opinion. You still have to get that special bolt out. You might as well start there. I made the tool with the square fitment. I put two flats on the sides of the tool's shaft. Good downward pressure, combined with a crescent wrench for torque, made it an easy job.
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06-10-2016, 10:35 AM | #3 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Why do you want to remove them? Their purpose is to prevent the engine from moving forward when power is applied to the rear end. Ford called them "engine stay rods" for a reason.
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06-10-2016, 10:53 AM | #4 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
I think he is trying to remove the engine from the frame. And he wants to know if he can pull the engine without removing the engine stay rods. I say NO. Don't try and remove the engine by sliding them over these rods. Remove the engine stay rods (chatter rods) before pulling the engine. That means you have to pull the floor boards to access the tops of the anti chatter rod bolts. As stated above, the enthusiast can make his own square-head tool to remove the rods. A good quality bolt can be ground down to make the correct size square head tool for removal. Last edited by Pomeroy41144; 06-10-2016 at 11:01 AM. |
06-10-2016, 11:04 AM | #5 | |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Quote:
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06-10-2016, 11:22 AM | #6 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
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That "pin" you refer to is a short carriage bolt with a nut up inside the frame cross member. Bruce
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06-10-2016, 11:33 AM | #7 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Yes, that sounds right. Most guys are saying it is accessed from the top with a 5/16 square socket, of some fabrication. The hole I am feeling, from the bottom, of the frame cross member is tiny; it seems to my feel about an eighth. I only have enough room for my thumb to in there to feel the hole. There is another plate below the hole, about the distance of the thickness of my thumb preventing direct access. I am trying to find the early ford hardware man's site to look at the hardware. Ray Nawisz?
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06-10-2016, 11:37 AM | #8 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Roy Nacewicz is at FORDBOLTS.COM
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06-10-2016, 11:41 AM | #9 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
See the first photo in the first post of the link provided. That is what I have found on my Fords. The "cup" shaped end is threaded and the short carriage bolt (with square hole in top) threads into that. There is no cage nut attached to the frame, the chatter rod end is threaded to take the bolt. You may want to try a "Chatter Rod" search on this forum. There are dozens of previous threads concerning this matter.
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...t=Chatter+Rods |
06-10-2016, 11:46 AM | #10 | |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Quote:
For others, here we go again: If you don't remove the rods, you will bend them while removing the engine. That's something you want to avoid. The special bolts that fasten the rods to the frame require a 5/16" square head drive to remove. You can make one out of a hex key (aka: allen wrench). You may want to apply a little heat to the rod at the area of the threads. It may help you "picture" what you are attempting to remove: It is a counter-sunk flat head bolt. The frame is counter-sunk to accept the bolt head. The female threads are integral of the rod(s).
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"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". Last edited by Kube; 06-10-2016 at 11:51 AM. |
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06-10-2016, 12:14 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Quote:
Mine looks like the rod had been flattened and a pin or stud with no head had been inserted through the flattened part and into the frame rail, but not through. At the top, the pin is flush with the flattened part of the rod. Is access gained from top or bottom? |
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06-10-2016, 12:15 PM | #12 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
If the square hole in the counter sunk bolt gets booged up. Weld a nut to the top of it . After the weld cools off they usually unscrew. Then replace the bolt. Also before you put it back together chase all the threads and use some neversieze so the next guy to take it apart has a easier job
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06-10-2016, 12:21 PM | #13 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
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06-10-2016, 12:57 PM | #14 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
This is for a 41 with 59 engine.
Bruce
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06-10-2016, 01:36 PM | #15 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
That bolt used in 1941 was a much better design than the '40 type. Mush easier to remove.
Here's a photo of the 40...
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06-10-2016, 01:43 PM | #16 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Here is a Photo of a properly installed "Anti Chatter Rod" from below.
The second photo is a 1937 Ford chatter rod, special flathead square hole bolt, washer and custom made tool. Third photo shows the two chatter rod holes on top of the frame. If you have the trans cover off, then they are accessible. The left chatter rod hole can be seen just left of the clutch spring. The right chatter rod hole can be seen just above the dog ear of the rear trans mount (it is counter sunk and appears as a dish-shaped hole). You can access the chatter rod bolts from the top. If you have something different, then you should post photos so the members can help you. |
06-10-2016, 07:34 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Quote:
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06-10-2016, 07:54 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
Quote:
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06-10-2016, 08:51 PM | #19 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
If you didn't remove the rods, you will have the same issues getting the engine back in. I would cut a hole above the bolts to remove the stay rods. You can deal with the holes when you're done.
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06-10-2016, 08:53 PM | #20 |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal
How much tolerance do you think Hank allowed for the rod to slide through the attachment on the block. From my estimation it is minuscule. From today's experience, I imagine I would have to drive the rods back through the attachment. What is your experience during re installation? My 40 is dry and now rust free. The PO changed out the front floor and trunk floors. It is obvious he half-assed the tool kit area. The front floor looks OK to me, but I fear not correct. He put it in to accommodate the transmission inspection plate he used, or visa versa. Do some of the earlier years use a front floor/inspection panel that would forbid access of 40 frame to rod attachment? I will try to get some pics soon, of the illustrative quality that Tony provided for me earlier. I am relieved to know that on my 46, Henry alleviated his previous piss poor engineering, and I won't have to repeat today's experience.
Last edited by dixiedelux; 06-10-2016 at 09:09 PM. |
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