Alternator question

[Art Newland]

Replaced my tired, not a Model A anyway, generator with a Ken Davis alternator. It included a rubber part in the tensioner kit that I haven't been able find a home for... anyone know where it goes?
It also added a little vibration to the car which surprised me, maybe I have the belt too tight?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Looks like a door window bottom bumper-stop for a closed car. Since Ken is a restorer too, I wonder if it was inadvertently placed into your shipping box. I would call him and ask personally.

[Art Newland]

It was sealed in the package with the tensioner, but I know "stuff happens".
Very nice guy to deal with BTW.

[Y-Blockhead]

Maybe I just can't see it but your upper "mount" seems to be missing?

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Maybe I just can't see it but your upper "mount" seems to be missing?

Maybe I did it wrong, weren't any instructions.

[Benson]

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Originally Posted by Art Newland

Replaced my tired, not a Model A anyway, generator with a Ken Davis alternator. It included a rubber part in the tensioner kit that I haven't been able find a home for... anyone know where it goes?
It also added a little vibration to the car which surprised me, maybe I have the belt too tight?

I found that a "standard belt" without the notches vibrates a little more than the notched belts (notches on inside of the belt).

I think that it is related the the tight turn of the belt due to the the smaller pulley on the alternator.

Belts I use are the Gates truck series. Part numbers begins with TRXXXXXX.

I am at the shop and do not have access to the part numbers of the belts..

[Benson]

I think that the rubber bumper goes between the flat on the tension bracket, shown in your photo, and the alternator!

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Maybe I did it wrong, weren't any instructions.

Oh, I see. I was looking at the upper "ear" on the alternator. That is where mine is mounted.

[brianpharmd]

Benson - not sure how that bumper would stay in place between the alternator and the bracket. On my two cars, I did away with that generator bracket and used this part from Mike's:

http://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A10001ADJ.html

The fully adjustable bracket allowed me to dial in the alternator to be in alignment with the fan and crank pulleys. The tension brace works well to keep the alternator in place and no belt slipping.

I never had any luck with either the support bracket with the generator or the same one supplied with the alternator every keeping enough tension on belt (by way of pressing on the alternator). I finally got tired of slipping/squealing belts and I don't have this issue with Mike's kit.

[CarlG]

My Alternator Kit came with all the brackets similar to what is in the link on post #9 (was not a Ken Davis Kit)

[Art Newland]

I thought that maybe the bumper went between the tensioner and alternator but there is nothing to hold it in place. It would fit on the H bracket, where it mounts to the block... just guessing. I'll contact him.
brianpharmd, that bracket setup looks awesome! It should, it costs half of what the alternator costs! Put 15 miles on the car this morning, holding tight so far. When first started, amp meter pegs at 20 amps, after a few minutes it drops to 10 amps, stayed there the whole drive. Will it ever settle down to 2-3? Maybe my amp meter is screwy. Is anyone running a ground wire to the block maybe?

[rocket1]

I guess you could glue it to the tension bracket and the rubber would rest against the alternator but I doubt it would make any difference because most alternators are rigid mounted.

[Art Newland]

BTW, the belt alignment looks perfect, there isn't a need for spacer/washers like depicted in the Nu-Rex video.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

brianpharmd, that bracket setup looks awesome! It should, it costs half of what the alternator costs!

Haha, that's funny... but true. I paid less for my New Delco 10si 63 amp three wire alternator.

[brianpharmd]

I'll pay the little extra to avoid the continued headaches of the alternator not holding the correct tension and belt issues then arising. To each their own I guess.

My 20 amp meter always pegs at 20 when I start the car running a 30 amp alternator. It settles down as I drive and usually sets in around 0. Will change slightly depending on which lights I have on at the time. When I ran the generator on the car, the amp meter never pegged. I am guessing that alternator = 30 amp and amp meter = 20amp, then it will always peg unless you install a 30 amp meter.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by brianpharmd

I'll pay the little extra to avoid the continued headaches of the alternator not holding the correct tension and belt issues then arising. To each their own I guess.

My 20 amp meter always pegs at 20 when I start the car running a 30 amp alternator. It settles down as I drive and usually sets in around 0. Will change slightly depending on which lights I have on at the time. When I ran the generator on the car, the amp meter never pegged. I am guessing that alternator = 30 amp and amp meter = 20amp, then it will always peg unless you install a 30 amp meter.

Not saying that the setup from afordable isn't worth the money, good stuff is more expensive, and it looks beefy and stout and looks like a great solution. I think the setup that came with my alternator was maybe an add-on to use with a stock generator? I haven't seen my amp meter drop below 10 amps so far... maybe my battery has been severely under charging and is taking a while to top off? One of the things on my to-do list is to make a ground strap from alternator to engine block, and to run an additional cable from the battery ground to the transmission. Thanks again for the charging info, now I know how it should be working.

[captndan]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Maybe I did it wrong, weren't any instructions.

Now I see what that rubber piece is for. My 31 has a rigid adjusting bar like a GM. The 30 has the bar like in your picture. Only one end is attached to the waterpump the other end is bent 90 deg. To push against the alternator. The rubber piece would fit on the end and cushion the bar where it pushes against the alternator.

[CarlG]

From what you have, you don't need the whole kit shown in the link in post #9. When you talk to Ken, just ask him about that. I know he makes an adjusting arm like that. Don't know why he doesn't include it in his alt kit.

[Quigley1930]

I have found with a low battery it will take a very long time to see the amp meter read 1-2. It's best to get the battery charged up with a slow charge. Make sure you don't have a dead cell.

Sewall

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by brianpharmd

I'll pay the little extra to avoid the continued headaches of the alternator not holding the correct tension and belt issues then arising. To each their own I guess.

My 20 amp meter always pegs at 20 when I start the car running a 30 amp alternator. It settles down as I drive and usually sets in around 0. Will change slightly depending on which lights I have on at the time. When I ran the generator on the car, the amp meter never pegged. I am guessing that alternator = 30 amp and amp meter = 20amp, then it will always peg unless you install a 30 amp meter.

The alternator will not put out more amps that what it called for. If your car is using 20 amps at start up it tells me that something else is not right. Perhaps you have a bad diode in the alternator and it is draining the battery while it sits, some other draw on the battery, or a battery going bad.