Holley ECG-5 2110 on Stock '51 239?

[miller91]

This thing I know isn't a "94"...but...the throttle bores and base match an AA-1 type, and this match is in the fuel bowl bores as well. The 1.0625" (1-1/16ths) venturi pinch would clearly change flow characteristics, but offer (depending on source) CFM closer to the theoretical needs of a stock (dual exhaust) 239 in a Custom sedan which is around 200 CFM mathematically. It also has the annular booster venturi fuel bars, by all accounts an improvement. It's jetted with .57's.

The car runs great...even with the loadamatic...I don't want to lose that low end grunt and overall driveability and relatively good mileage, but as the torque curve falls away and the HP comes on the stock carb is just a little tight. I've been thinking of a 2X2 all along and a Bubba-ized Mallory dual point...but right now, with 37,000 original miles I want to do the minimum....just a liiiiitle more breathing?

Thoughts?

[40cpe]

I can't help you with your proposed mods, but you're lucky to have a 37,000 mile shoebox Custom. I had a 40,000 mile '50 once (same color as your avatar) and it was a delightful car. I'm not a purist but I would think twice about changing it. One change seems to require two more and it never stops. Congratulations on a very nice car.

[19Fordy]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Having a completely original car is something special.

[tubman]

Well, my '51 Custom has almost 80K miles, but it is a good original as well. I use it to test carburetors that I rebuild. Mine is stock as well, and I've had a few 2110's on in over the years. I've never had a problem with a properly built example of any of this family of carbs. That being said. I highly doubt if you could discern any performance increase at all with the 2110.

[Ol' Ron]

Working on the flathead to improve economy, You need a good AF meter and a distributor you can adjust the Mechanical and vacuum advance. then run a series of tests over a known distance and record the data. Personalty, I'd 86 the Loadamatic and mill the heads for 45/50 thou piston to head clearance. THEN start running carb tests. I've been doing this through Richard for the past 5 or 6 years and am now starting on my own tests on a 280 "Stock" flathead.

[scooder]

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Is the carb you mention with the 1 1/16" venturis the one with the huge throttle plates?
If so you'd need to swap to a Merc four bolt manifold and bore the risers out to fit that carb. If you don't, it'll be a waste of time, and probably hurt the flow, even though the carb is bigger. This is due to the miss match in sizes between the carb base and manifold. The Merc one is the only one that'll bore out big enough, Ford ones you'd hit daylight and exhaust. Oddly the Merc one also needs boring out to match the size of the throttle plates that it actually came with from the factory.
Keep the jets stock for the carb, I mean use the 57's it came with, they will be damn close to perfect, 51's from an 8BA carb are way too small for that Big carb.
Just a note on "mathematically" working out required cfm. It's mostly baloney in the real world. Always spits out a cfm "need" that's to small. If it was right, fitting two carbs to a flathead would deliver less power, bad driveability and awful mpg. Which of course is nonsense if there set up correctly!! Just look at Walt's ride with four 97's on it with straight linkage!
And, the cfm numbers quoted for 94 family and 97 family carbs, are tested at 1.5" depression. Two barrel carbs should be tested at 3", four barrels are tested at 1.5". So before you even get to the math, the numbers are wrong.
Not quite so straight forward is it. Essentially, yes you can fit the bigger carb, with the relevant manifold and mods. It will be better, everywhere I'd guess, as the stock carb is very small for the engine. By how much? A bit. Would you feel it? Depends how sensitive your butt is. I can tell you going from one correctly functioning carb and ignition to a dual with correctly functioning carbs and ignition is very noticeable by my butt. Including better mpg, when I wasn't standing on the throttle at every chance.
If you've got the carb and manifold (bored out) give it a go. It's only nuts and bolts, I can easily come off again.
Martin.

[Ross F-1]

The 2110's I've had all had #56 jets as stock.

I agree with Tubman, I didn't notice any improvement when I was running one.Most of them have a really funky choke setup, too.

[miller91]

Thanks for the advice...Dad gave me the car on his deathbed last year.

[scooder]

Ross,
Out of interest did you try the big throttle carb on a bored out Merc manifold?
Thanks for the correction on the jets.
Martin.

[Ross F-1]

Martin, no, I didn't have the resources at the time. I used a stack of gaskets that transitioned from throttle bore to manifold bore.

[miller91]

The carb is a marked rebuild, and has an AA-1 style base; perfect match to the Ford three stud manifold, and the bores match up to the fuel bowl perfectly as well. Had a set of .57 jets in it for sure. As a rebuild it could be a mishmash, regardless it's in great shape may give it a go someday, for now the car runs great, leaving it as is. I have it cleaned, sorted, ready to be rebuilt, may throw it on and try it when I need to refresh the AA-1 that's on the car.

[scooder]

So it's a Small normal 94 size base? Has it got round boosters? Or angled bar type?
Martin.

[miller91]

Originally Posted by scooder

So it's a Small normal 94 size base? Has it got round boosters? Or angled bar type?
Martin.

Hey Scooder, it has the later high angled bar type with annular venturi. These from what I hear are a distinct improvement over the old "V" shaped bars and drop in to every fuel bowl I have, AA-1's too. They do have a perforated brass probe that fits into the jet feed port, but I guess the second little venturi helps responsiveness and smooths out acceleration. I think it's worth trying, easy enough to change.

[Bored&Stroked]

I think it is worth a try - as long as you port the manifold to match the base of the 2110. I used to run these on a SCOT blown flathead - ran really well. I'm just about ready to port the top of my Eddie Meyer manifold such that I can swap my Stromberg 48's over to two of these 2110's. I'll use a vacuum gauge to select the correct power-valves (which you can buy from Edelbrock to fit these bases).

I'm going to do a dyno test (chassis) - just to see if they deiver more HP on my setup. Currently my 284 cube motor seems to run out of carb at about 4500 (my guess), so I'll put a AFR on it and go to the dyno for some fun! Why the heck not - always something to learn.