oil filters, again !

[cas3]

here's a set up that was on a motor i bought. i didnt think much of it, besides being ugly, until the recent posts of melted bearings, and restricted lines to the filter. this one seems wrong to me. the line out of the rear of the block is just 1/4 steel line to the filter housing, no restriction, then thru the filter and back into the block. so, the gauge on top should only read any slight pressure build up from the the filter, and little or no oil is going to the crank? i havnt run it yet, but i am about to. f1a filter restricted? remove it? thanks, skip

[41Joe]

It looks like they just replaced the stock canister filter with a regular spin on filter. I'm only saying this because it appears to have only one line coming from the pressure side of the pump and then the return line goes back to the pan. That is how the stock setup is.
Although I could be wrong. If the line from the pan is going to the inlet of the filter and the outlet of the filter goes into the block, they could have one of those modified pumps to do 100% filtration.

[JSeery]

But, it still needs the restrictor, oil line size is not an issue. Easy fix might be to replace the filter with an orginal.

[Ross F-1]

Definitely need the restrictor. It might be better than nothing, but a full-flow filter won't remove near as much as a stock bypass filter.

Is it hooked up correctly?

[V8 Bob]

I would not run the engine with that filter. The original system is "partial flow", and uses a very fine filter that receives oil through a restriction (about "060") and returns filtered oil to the pan. Someone rigged that full flow filter and no restriction, which will result in a loss of oil pressure along with marginal filtering. I would remove the outlet line at the rear of the block and install the pressure gauge in that port to test run the engine.
There is a screw-on fine filter that replaces the original canister filter, but a restriction is still needed to minimize oil flow and pressure loss.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

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it's set up like original partial flow std. filter, it should have a restricted fitting 1/16 hole going into the filter, the guage should be on the outside of the restricted fitting, I don't know how the element works but I'd deep six the whole thing. Walt

[cas3]

thanks, you've all confirmed my guess. the guy i bought it from had run it like this on a stand. hopefully not enough to kill it. i want to run it to see what i bought. i have some stock filter cans i could put on, but i may just remove it for now. v8 bob do you have a # for the fine filter? thanks, skip

[flatheadmurre]

Get the restrictor in the right place move the oilpressure gauge to the block where it belongs and get a filter of the right grade.
There are spinon bypass filters available.

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by JSeery

But, it still needs the restrictor, oil line size is not an issue. Easy fix might be to replace the filter with an orginal.

If you want replace it with an original PM me for this one. It has the restrictor in the stand pipe inside

[Kurt in NJ]

There is a spin on filter with the restrictor, made as a bypass filter, I think the number is PB18 used on Lincoln welder a and ramblers

[V8 Bob]

I can't find the actual filter number, but this is one popular partial flow spin-on conversion kit that includes a .050" restriction and 1/4" lines etc.







Part #: 49-19393-1
Alt Part #: 8A-6731-KT

[Ronnie]

You can buy a filter with a restrictor in it. LF117 Hastings,Baldwin B50,Wix 51050 and many more not an issue.
The Problem is the filter remote in the picture has 3/4x16 thread.The restricted filters require a remote with 5/8x18 thread to accommodate the restricted filters that are 5/8 thread and not 3/4 thread like the one in the pic. Get a new remote housing from Wix or Baldwin and the trouble disappears.Or just go back to a cartridge canister and drive on. Clear as mud correct.Hope this helps.The restricted spin on are a very common forklift filter. Hope this helps.
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Exa...x?PartNo=lf117

R

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Ronnie;[URL

http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Exactmatch.aspx?PartNo=lf117[/URL]

R

Just clicked on the link Ronnie provided and then clicked on the part number (in blue). A picture of the filter pops up along with the specs.

[Diavolo]

This is actually sold in Mac's. It is intended to replace the original caniser with a spin on as a direct replacement. This would be the fastest, correct, and easy filter replacement version of the original.

I went with full bypass, but I would have considered this.

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

I can't find the actual filter number, but this is one popular partial flow spin-on conversion kit that includes a .050" restriction and 1/4" lines etc.







Part #: 49-19393-1
Alt Part #: 8A-6731-KT

[cas3]

update: i welded up th fitting on the input side of the filter housing, and drilled it to 1/16 for restriction. i put the gauge on the block, and went to town for a finer filter. as you may guess, they thought i was nuts, and they're books were really not much help. but i came home with the finest micron filter they had. i then took all the spark plugs out so i could spin it over and prime the oil and fuel pump. odd thing here, the oil gauge would pulse from 0 to 20 or 30, like there was a pressure loss on each revolution, like a bearing out? scared me to heck. so finally the big moment...i fired it up. it started right up and ran great !!!. i ran it for about an hour in my test stand. after all warmed up, no smoke, no blowby, all good. this motor was supposed to have been rebuilt a few thousand miles back, and a new owner decided he wanted a "belly button " motor instead (thanks ol ron for the term). so, rebuilt when, by who, and what did they do is not known and i have bought some rebuilt motors that were just new paint before. this one seems good, looks clean inside, so maybe i won this time. now, for some odd things and questions for the great minds here on the barn: my mechanical temp gauge i intended to use would not fit, so i went without. it will idle forever and not even show steam out the radiator top, but when i give it some rpm's, hot water will come to the radiator and belch out a bit, then as soon as it idles its fine again. like its not circulating at idle. 8ba, no thermostats, and just some old junky pumps i had for this test phase. comments please! now, the oil pressure once hot, was 10 lbs at low idle, and would peg the 50lb gauge at high rev, however, at idle it will sometimes still pulse (fluctuate?) bad gauge maybe? in 2010 i had a fire in my shop so my lifetime collection of junk for expiriments is gone, fire is a bad thing !! comments welcome, thanks skip

[cas3]

i put a different oil pressure gauge on today, not much difference, about 55-60 on the high end, and still fluttering at 10 to 15 warm, at idle. what would cause to pressure to flutter at idle?

[flatheadmurre]

A leak at the oil pickup ??
If the oilpump isnt in top shape you get something like this to.
Hard to say when you dont know how rebuilt it was and what its been seeing since then.

[Ronnie]

In most instances engine bearing clearances are what maintains oil pressure when the correct oil is used and the pump is serviceable.

R