removing wishbone

[Deny1950]

Hi can someone tell me what is the best way to remove the two perch bolts that hold the wishbone on,are they pressed in or can they be just hammered out or other method ? Have to remove everything so i can straighten axle. Thanks Denis

[Manager]

They arn't pressed in but they can be pretty hard to get apart. Sometimes need heating. There is a how to on here somewhere I think or in the Tardel book or maybe he has a web site.

[Manager]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...damage.649367/

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=532078

Can't find the Tardel one but plenty of info in those 2 threads

[Tim B.]

Not sure how crusty your axle is but I wouldn't recommend using a hammer.

I used a hydraulic shop press, a couple of 5/8" grade 8 nuts and 1-1/2" long hex head bolts, lots of penetrating oil and patience. I removed the perch nuts and oiled the pin threads for a couple of days. I then put a nut half way on the perch pin threads and inserted the bolt on the other side of it so the nut acted like a coupling and let me apply pressure of the press ram to the pin via the head of the bolt and not directly on the end of the perch pin to prevent mushrooming the pin and damaging the threads. Tried to get them to pop each day and re-oiled and left pressure on them if they didn't. Took a couple of days before they did. Good size bang when they let go. I then used a 5/8 X 3-1/2 inch grade 8 bolt and the press to push the loosened (but stubborn) pins out of the axle.

Good luck Tim.

[Deny1950]

ok thanks for all the info guys

[Kevin in NJ]

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NEVER NEVER heat the axle!!!!!!!!!!

You will ruin its hardness!!!!!!! It will bend very easy after it is heated.

The most effective way I found is with a long through air hammer. Some are call 3X air hammers. The automotive units have heavier hammers. The X kind are for setting aircraft rivets.

I use an automotive long throw air hammer. I cut an end off a tool and put the nut on the end of the perch. Then the critical part. The axle MUST be held with no real movement with each hit. Just let the gun do the work. Done right the perch will be reusable.

Do not waste you time thinking you are going to get penetrating fluild in the rust held areas. Is not going to happen.

See the link below for more info on axle straightening

[Mike V. Florida]

How hard are the axles?

[Larry Jenkins]

Brinell or Rockwell C? Lots of original Model A parts show the Brinell ball marks on them. Smaller diameter is harder. No, I don't have a Brinell chart.

Larry

[Kevin in NJ]

Hardness is not the right term.

There ability to rebound back to their original position after a hit is seriously reduced.

So ordinary hits to pot holes or parking mess ups will allow the axle to bend and hold the bend.

Working from my memory, I think I did 10 pumps of the 10 ton press to get like 1/8 of an inch with a lot of spring back. The axle that was heated moved a 1/2" and very little spring back.

You can choose to ignore my advice. I like my A to be safe to run 60+ mph like it just came from the factory.

[m_w92278]

I had a problem removing mine, tried a 20 ton shop press and they still wouldnt move, ended up soaking the front axle in a tub of atf and acetone for about a week and hammered the one out just started on the second one.

[Larry Jenkins]

What are the good reasons to even try to remove them? The 1.5 diameter ball can be replaced plus other parts too. Not worth the hassle.

Heating above certain temperature does alter the metal's chemistry.

In the three As I have restored, I never even tried to take it apart.