A-V8 flathead mounts

[cuzncletus]

I'm building an A-V8 roadster using Tardel's book as a guide. It will be flathead powered, of course; a 1946 59a and 39 trans. I'm starting from a stock bare A chassis. In Tardel's book, the center of the motor mounts for this engine are supposed to be 3" back from the center of the radiator mount holes. I assume these are the two oblong holes on either side of the front crossmember. For some reason this doesn't look like what's pictured in the book. Just trying to make sure before I start tacking things together.

[29AVEE8]

The Tardell book is a guide not a blueprint. In your case assuming a torque tube and an early K mounting the trans you have a lot to do. Body needs to mount with c/l of the wheel well on the c/l of the rear axle. Where does the K member go? how long is the torque tube? Where the K member goes thats where the trans goes Where the trans goes thats where the engine goes. Do you have enough firewall clearance? Trying to do the front engine mount first will just cause frustration.

[skidmarks]

Yes the oval holes are the radiator mounting holes. The F1 transmission crossmember is a lot less work then using a K member and cheaper

[cuzncletus]

Thanks. F1 crossmember is in the plans. My idea was to rough the chassis together with just tack welds for motor mounts, cross member, etc. I know things will have to shift around for final assembly. I want a mocked up rolling chassis before I ordered the Brookville body. There are a couple of very good, reasonably priced rod shops in East Tenn. that are experienced with these builds. That's where the car will go for final fitting.

[papanomad]

there have been discussions about Tardels measurement not being right. I just finished mocking up engine & transmission to drive shaft with f-1 crossmember. measurement from radiator to motor mount c/l to c/l is 6 1/4" but that is not where I started, thats where measurement ended up. yours might be different. all trial and error!

[deuce_roadster]

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If you look closely at the rear tire in the fender opening on stock early Fords, the tire is not centered, it is closer to the front. This was a conscious styling decision. I personally think it looks "funny" when centered. Just my 2cents.

[skidmarks]

What rear do you plan to use? Super easy is a 37-41 rear and use the spring hangers cut off of a model A rear. Bolts together then weld it up. Uses the stock A spring. Then shorten up the torque tube. Done a bunch of them this way. All old ford parts.. clock the backing plates for more clearance and redrill. Lets you use the stock model A shock ball

[rustythumb]

on stock model a's iv'e seen including my own before i modified it, the rear wheels are about 1" too far back. '32 and later are a little forward of center.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Check out House of Fab - he has the. parts and an actual kir to build an A-V8. He advertised here and on the Hamb. He even builds/has the F-1 cross member already modified you need.

[cuzncletus]

Using House of Fab spring hangers on my 39 rear axle with a T spring. BOught some motor mounts from a chassis supply guy at Shades of the Past run today that will easily cut to fit. I'm going to try to get some measurements off my 59A when the sun comes up. I've accessed an F1 crossmember and pedals from Gene's Hot Rod Parts in Knoxville. Great guy, reasonable prices. This guy is the real deal, hard core hotrodder.

[Ralph Moore]

Your choice of fan type will also dictate, I'm using the big 46 style oiled hub and had to move my motor mounts back an additional 5/8" from the radiator. As said before, mock it all up before you put them in. I didn't and had to do a lot of extra work.

[rotorwrench]

Mike had several different measurements that went into the book that couldn't be changed after the final edit. One was the engine mount location and the other was use of the 1934 type wishbone. They tried to get it changed before the presses ran but it was too late.

Mike posted a procedure on the HAMB for modifying the 34 wishbone to work with the 32 K-member installation that was in the book. If your using an F1 X-member then that info may not be of any use. As was mentioned, it is a very good guide but not a master blueprint for building an AV8. It sure affected me. I've been gathering parts for my own project because of that book. Mine will differ in that I will be using an 8BA type engine so other mods have to be made to suit that. I'm also setting mine up for a 7.5-inch frame extension in order to go with a spring behind the axle set up. I was looking for less intrusion into the trunk area but every one building an AV8 should do it their own way. Cookie cutter cars are boring.

[john in illinois]

One thing I had to consider was the distance between the radiator outlets and water pump outlets. I could move the engine more forward but there was no clearance for hoses. One of many things to check.

John

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by cuzncletus

Thanks. F1 crossmember is in the plans. My idea was to rough the chassis together with just tack welds for motor mounts, cross member, etc. I know things will have to shift around for final assembly. I want a mocked up rolling chassis before I ordered the Brookville body. There are a couple of very good, reasonably priced rod shops in East Tenn. that are experienced with these builds. That's where the car will go for final fitting.

I did what you want to, and I advise that you should have the body and the radiator to mock up the whole thing.
I made the front motor mounts like Bishop/Tardels book says, the hole should be smaller than they advise, and I put my mounts as far forward as they could go, touching the front cross member... NOT what was advised.

I still had clearance issues with the firewall, which I did not want to cut or move... I made a new fuel pump stand- so I could keep the stock fuel pump and use an old style throttle set up.

THE POINT IS, I lucked out... not the best way to wind up with a clean installation. I don't think I'll do it that way again.

Karl

[cuzncletus]

After looking at and talking to the builder of an AV8 at the Shades of the Past run today, my game plan changed. I'm not tall, but I make up for it dimensionally in other areas. That said, once I was in the roadster it was a comfy fit. He had recessed the firewall for his flathead but there was still plenty of leg room. I'm thinking reversed firewall. All of this, of course, will necessitate purchasing and mounting the body first. This throws me a curve ball budget-wise, as I was planning to go as far as I could with the chassis before buying the body.

[pooch]

Originally Posted by cuzncletus

I'm building an A-V8 roadster using Tardel's book as a guide. It will be flathead powered, of course; a 1946 59a and 39 trans. I'm starting from a stock bare A chassis. In Tardel's book, the center of the motor mounts for this engine are supposed to be 3" back from the center of the radiator mount holes. I assume these are the two oblong holes on either side of the front crossmember. For some reason this doesn't look like what's pictured in the book. Just trying to make sure before I start tacking things together.

You are reading wrong....

The book says put the leading edge of the mount 3 inches back.

The mount is 3 inches wide, its hole in the middle is 1 1/2 inches back from its leading edge.

That makes the total hole to hole centres at 4 1/2 inches apart.

I am building a 29 AV8 ATM and I think I will move mine back to about 5 1/2 inches to give the bottom radiator hoses a bit more room to flex .

[john in illinois]

I agree with Karl and Ralph.I clamped my front mounts on with c clamps and installed everything,engine,trans,steering column,headers,radiator, body. That way I could slide it back and forth and fit things.


John

[rotorwrench]

A person can mock up with a cowl assembly only. They used to be setting in city dumps and salvage yards all over America but not so much now days. This makes it easier to get your engine located prior to installing the body.

[Johnnydidd]

Buy a frame assy from a frame builder, it will come set up for flathead plus brakes, springs, and cross members. I built one the way you are doing it, like everyone else made alot of mitakes and redo. Good luck.

[skidmarks]

Build it yourself its not as hard as some make it sound. Once you set the motor were you want it the rest falls into place. Nice thing about a F1 crossmember is you can use everything . The pedals. And clutch linkage all lines up. Set the banjo rear with the spring in the stock location and a tape measure will tell what needs done to the torque tube. The only piece that requires a lathe is the driveshaft and the torque tube.
The F1 steering box works well also.