newbee - 36 Pickup radiator mod question

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Graeme / New Zealand

David I have copper fuel line on my car and it is fine, there has been a lot of debate over the years on the rights and wrongs of this stuff on this and the old Fordbarn. I would not change it for the sake of it but make sure you have a flexible hose between the fuel pump and where it passes the clamp on the firewall. Nice truck by the way . Perhaps I'll see it around as I'm in Lower Hutt

I had a problem with my radiator frothing away. I tipped some of that radiator cleaner in the system, ran it for a while then flushed it. You should of seen all the crap that came out.

GB

I second this. G.M.

[blucar]

Lets re-phrase the question of copper fuel/hydraulic lines vs steel lines..
If copper was better for automotive use, the factory would specify and/or use it. It only takes one broken fuel line to totally ruin an afternoon and/or vehicle.
If you don't have the means to make new steel lines, have someone make one for you.
A good example of how the lines should be ran is to look at a modern vehicle, the fuel lines will be located away from the block, with a short rubber/braided hose between the chassis lines and the engine.

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Are we forgetting about copper jacketed steel tubing?
Sometimes what looks like copper on the outside could be steel inside.

[kiwitony]

Cool truck I looked at it at the beach hop.My mate nearly bought it but his wife said no as they are building a new house. Cheers tony.

[G.M.]

Copper work hardens and cracks after a LONG time movement of a short area. On a typical old Ford there should be no unsupported section that would be subject to movement. The only place this occurs is from the firewall to the fuel pump. This is the job of the hose to take the movement out of the solid fuel line. I'm not promoting copper line and have some on a few of my old Fords but it's not a problem. If steel is available for the main fuel line that is best. From the pump to the carb, the proper length has no flex motion. G.M.

[SofaKing]

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Originally Posted by Scott H in Wheaton

Are we forgetting about copper jacketed steel tubing?
Sometimes what looks like copper on the outside could be steel inside.

x2- check with magnet.

[david.skinner]

Good idea on the magnet. thanks for this.

So draining the cooling system is not as easy as it sounds. Getting the lower radiator hoses off is non trivial. There does appear to be brass plugs under the water pumps but they have very little clearance from the front axle/strut thingy and are difficult to get to. I'm keen to be able to change the coolant every couple of years without major engineering. Thoughts?

Graeme - looking forward to meeting - will likely be at the rod show in the Hutt tomorrow. D,

[Phil Gillespie]

Maybe you could think about joining EFV8 club Wellington area. There is always a wealth of knowledge and info to be used from some very helpful flathead owners.
Phil
NZ

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Originally Posted by david.skinner

Good idea on the magnet. thanks for this.

So draining the cooling system is not as easy as it sounds. Getting the lower radiator hoses off is non trivial. There does appear to be brass plugs under the water pumps but they have very little clearance from the front axle/strut thingy and are difficult to get to. I'm keen to be able to change the coolant every couple of years without major engineering. Thoughts?

Graeme - looking forward to meeting - will likely be at the rod show in the Hutt tomorrow. D,

Yes I'm looking at going there. I won't have my car as I'm still in the process of getting it complied. I find the best way to get the bottom hose off is to undo both clips and wiggle the hose like hell, eventually you will get it to a position when you can move one end off either the pump or the rad. Easy trick for putting them back on is to boil the jug and to pour the water into an ice cream container and soak the hoses for a few minutes, this makes them easier to bend so you can get the ends back on.

GB

[Talkwrench]

If you want to do the coolant change and make sure your cooling is tip top. Pull the radiator ( not a real fun job) then get it rodded out while there have them install two drain cocks near the inlets. From what I see you have a modern core if not and something is wrong your up for $$$. Time to install two new water pumps, drakes or skips you choose, or you can go through yours. Install with stainless bolts. Also I have fitted those cone shaped filters that will trap a fair bit of crap in the top of the radiator hoses. When it comes to flushing you can simply take out your thermostats bolt up again stick a hose in the top open the drain cocks and flush through. When cool drain again blow out as much with a compressor , reinstall thermostats , drain cocks, clean out the cone filters fill up with distilled water and I prefer a non glycol type coolant. Bobs your aunty!

[ford38v8]

David, Coming in here late, but have read all the previous advice and have a bit of my own. I would avoid pulling the radiator unless really needed, as the whole front assembly is based on the radiator, therefore you'll have a fun time getting it all lined up again.

If you'd like a little easier method of remove/replace the bottom radiator hoses or to simply flush properly, use a floor eack with a wood block under the front of the engine pan, and release the front motor mounts. With clamps off the hoses, a gentle lift will offset enough to get them off and on again easily. Watch for clearance at the firewall to engine, don't lift too high.

If you do need to remove the radiator, yes, a drain cock can easily be installed on the bottom of the tank, if you first identify an accessible location once installed again. One final note on pressurizing your radiator: The early radiators were not engineered to withstand pressure at the seams, so limit the pressure to 4 lbs max. Also, the wide flat expanse of the top panel of the top tank on the '36 will buckle and oil-can under pressure, that being another limitation on pressure. If the tank is removed for work, an inner brace for that top tank may be fabricated and soldered internally to prevent the oil-can effect.

Very unusual truck, wish it was mine!

[Brendan]

that is a Bad ass pickup!

[david.skinner]

Just to continue this thread - the run on the motorway for an hour each way went well but we lost quite a bit of coolant so I think it is time to pull the radiator out and get some work done on it. Will go for the stuff required to pressurise the system to 4lb with the overflow valve. Will clean and replace the pumps etc. I'm tempted to consider an electric fan instead of the extremely noisy fan on it at the moment which I believe is not an original. Any thoughts?

[Phil Gillespie]

The blockage of the radiator can cause coolant loss. i experienced this on 34 coupe.
Removed radiator, top tank off. was 40% blocked. Rodded out and cleared.
Back in use with thermosats and works well with stock water pumps and fan as mounted on generator. No overheating. Stick with stock set up and ensure your radiator is not blocked. These systems when clean and free flowing don not require additional electric fans normally, especially here in NZ. i went over Arthurs Pass to West Coast and back and nil cooling loss or overheating using a non pressurised cap.
Once system finds its own level allowing for expansion all should be good.
Best of luck.
Phil NZ

[Talkwrench]

Electric fan will work fine even better with a shroud, once you get your radiator rodded and all else fine it will hardly ever come on.. Maybe never in NZ! I have to use a cover over mine half the time...

[david.skinner]

Just to close this thread off - I have had the radiator rodded, fitted new pumps and engine mounts while I was at it. replaced the lower hoses with silicon ones, removed the alternator mounted fan, fitted an electric fan, thermostat and wiring and it runs perfectly. Even without pressurising it there is no more coolant loss on the motorway at about 50mph. So apart from having to do more work to line up the bodywork and keeping my eye out for some better fan mount brackets this job is complete. Many thanks for all the advice - very much appreciated - now for a new thread on checking the state of the engine.

[40frank]

I love that 36

[adileo]

Very very nice lookin truck - good luck and enjoy!