12 volt question and dust clouds

[GB SISSON]

I have done a few 12 volt conversions with chev one wires, but used aftermarket gauges. I would like to keep original gauges this time in my 47 truck. Is there one wire feeding the oil pressure, temp and fuel gauge that I put a resistor on or do I need 3 resistors for the 3 gauges? Also I only have napa here and I read somewhere they have the resistor or voltage reducer needed. Anyone have the part number? Thanks. Got the panel running strong, but want to have everything under the hood buttoned up before I install the front clip I picked up in Montana. Here's some pics my wife took today of the old man raging in the panel truck

[expavr]

I can't help you with the electrical question, but sure enjoy looking at that dust making device in full motion. You plan to take a paint roller and brush to that new front clip to match the original patina?

[f1builder]

i used inline reducers i got off ebay on my conversion. they work great and don't cost much (like 3.00 each). norcap sales, 1-209-481-6496. www.AutoReWire.com.

[wga]

Ron Francis is one source for a universal aftermarket version. It markets two
units: PN VR-l is designed to power low-current devices like instruments and
radios with less than 6 watts/channel output. [Positive-ground radios usually
don't respond well and should be converted to 12-volt operation by Antique Auto
Radio or replaced entirely by a modern 12-volt radio.] The higher-current rated
Francis unit (PNVR-4) can handle some electric wiper motors and early
air-conditioner solenoids; it has a 15-amp rated output capacity.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks guys. Now I'm trying to find a common feed that hots up all the gauges. Napa is a 24 mile round trip so I found a ford voltage reducer on a 1960 f350 instrument panel and was going to try that at first. The ignition switch on the 47 panel is mostly missing, but there are 3 wires that went to it dangling there. There are broken off pieces of bakelite and one wire goes to 'bat', one to 'gages' and there is another that just ends in a ring terminal. I have a six volt battery charger hooked up to the large ring terminal which feeds everything but is held away from the solenoid. It's pretty obvious that the yellow and black wires on the panel's gauges is what feeds them but I don't see what is supposed to feed those wires. If I touch a hot 6 v wire to the feed side of the gauges I get a decent spark off of it so not sure I want to hook it up. The wire to the oil pressure sender is off and held away, same for the water temp sender and the wire to the fuel tank float has been snipped off. I can't seem to find a diagram, seems what I find I will need to order a diagram for 17 bucks. Any help would be appreciated. Diagram of panel wiring? Thanks

[bchrismer]

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GB,

When I did the gauges in my coupe and truck, I made some of these reducers. They go one per gauge.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...-for-3.448589/

I think I have about $10 invested between the two '40s.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Thanks guys. Now I'm trying to find a common feed that hots up all the gauges. Napa is a 24 mile round trip so I found a ford voltage reducer on a 1960 f350 instrument panel and was going to try that at first. The ignition switch on the 47 panel is mostly missing, but there are 3 wires that went to it dangling there. There are broken off pieces of bakelite and one wire goes to 'bat', one to 'gages' and there is another that just ends in a ring terminal. I have a six volt battery charger hooked up to the large ring terminal which feeds everything but is held away from the solenoid. It's pretty obvious that the yellow and black wires on the panel's gauges is what feeds them but I don't see what is supposed to feed those wires. If I touch a hot 6 v wire to the feed side of the gauges I get a decent spark off of it so not sure I want to hook it up. The wire to the oil pressure sender is off and held away, same for the water temp sender and the wire to the fuel tank float has been snipped off. I can't seem to find a diagram, seems what I find I will need to order a diagram for 17 bucks. Any help would be appreciated. Diagram of panel wiring? Thanks

Do you have a wiring diagram? The original had a wire from the ignition switch to the Oil pressure gauge and then a wire from the same terminal of the Oil pressure to the Temp gauge. There is a strap connecting the Temp gauge to the Fuel gauge. One reducer should work for all of them if it is rated correctly. If you are going to use three different reducers then it needs to be rewired with a separate lead to each gauge and the connections between the gauges removed (they would need to be isolated).

[cmbrucew]

GB
That Ford truck voltage reducer will work fine. Exactly what it was made for.
Bruce

[santino2010]

hello there all I myself bought those reducers from autorewire.com and im having a bit of trouble on how to mount them...
the original gauges on my 49 have one wire that starts from the ignition then goes to the oil then you got some jumpers that jump all of the other gauges so i assume those jumpers have to come off????

[morrisgauge]

Are you using the original KS sending units?

[santino2010]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by KS sending units..
There just original units...

[modela4shane]

King seeley

[santino2010]

No king seeley

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I have done a few 12 volt conversions with chev one wires, but used aftermarket gauges. I would like to keep original gauges this time in my 47 truck. Is there one wire feeding the oil pressure, temp and fuel gauge that I put a resistor on or do I need 3 resistors for the 3 gauges? Also I only have napa here and I read somewhere they have the resistor or voltage reducer needed. Anyone have the part number? Thanks. Got the panel running strong, but want to have everything under the hood buttoned up before I install the front clip I picked up in Montana. Here's some pics my wife took today of the old man raging in the panel truck

Okay, I give up. So,, WHAT ABOUT THE DUST CLOUDS?????? LOL

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by santino2010

hello there all I myself bought those reducers from autorewire.com and im having a bit of trouble on how to mount them...
the original gauges on my 49 have one wire that starts from the ignition then goes to the oil then you got some jumpers that jump all of the other gauges so i assume those jumpers have to come off????

See #7 above.

[GB SISSON]

Gave up on the gauges and installed the passenger seat and finished installing the grille bars on the front clip. I don't understand electricity because I can't see it. I got some green and tan paint going on the blue front clip but the patina wont be complete until the clip is mounted on the truck. Electrical is so entirely frustrating for me. It's right up there with my smart phone. Here's some pics from today about things I can see and touch. Grilles, seats and real stuff.

[morrisgauge]

King Seeley (KS) is the original gauge manufacturer. Most of the sending units are marked with the KS stamp. Go with a solid state voltage drop to mimic the original 6 volt chassis voltage. The later "points style" instrument voltage regulators (IVR) used after 1956 are prone to failure and are intended for the later rheostat type senders.

[FireEngineMike]

Gary, I am so jealous of your original folding passenger seat. They are scarcer than hens teeth. The front clip is looking good. BTW you can see electricity. All you have to do is put a pocket knife across power terminals; even 12 volts will leave you a permanent vision of it.

[bchrismer]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Okay, I give up. So,, WHAT ABOUT THE DUST CLOUDS?????? LOL

I think that he's referring to the dust clouds that he's busy making running around on his property. Looks like he's having some fun!