Prime to start.

[39topless]

I have installed two 97's, that I rebuilt, in a 2 X 2 setup on my stock '39 V8. The only way to get this started is to prime the carbs. I have also installed a new electric fuel pump that is run through a new regulator that was factory set to 2.5. I do start the pump for about 5 seconds before turning the engine over. Do the idle adjustment screws have an effect on the startup? They are set to about 3.5 turns out. What should I try?
Thanks, Phil

[adileo]

After you prime does it run normal? It's just starting the problem?

[54vicky]

accelerator pumps?

[39topless]

Originally Posted by adileo

After you prime does it run normal? It's just starting the problem?

After prime it runs fine. New accelerator pumps.

[scicala]

It doesn't make a lot of sense. If it runs good after being primed, and the accel pumps are working, it should start when you pump the throttle to squirt the accel pumps and/or pull out the choke a little bit. Don't know what to tell you.

Sal

[54vicky]

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Originally Posted by 39topless

After prime it runs fine. New accelerator pumps.

have you looked down throat of carbs when pumping throttle?new does not mean that they do the job.new and working are worlds apart these days with parts coming from who knows where easy to check

[chap52]

First off, as suggested first give a peek to make sure it's getting gas.
Is this just a cold start, or every start? Did you sync the carbs with a uni-sync? (Check past posts for tuning dual carbs)
I believe that you will find the ideal start scenario after a few different combinations are tried. My truck with dual 94's, electric fuel pump has told me that the cold start procedure it likes is, turn on ignition, listen to hear fuel pump running, 3/4 choke, two quick pumps on the gas pedal and engage the starter. VAROOM...
Please keep us posted, we all learn from these adventures.

[39topless]

Uni-sync? wow, never heard of that. I'll get on it. Thanks so much.
Phil

[WestCoast]

some times people lose the bb sized check ball at the bottom of the accelerator well, with out that ball in place no fuel will be squirted down the carb throats, 3 1/2 turns out on the idle adjustment screw seems a little to much to me, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 should be plenty, sounds like you may have a vacuum leak in the fuel system

[f1builder]

yes, a vacuum leak or something might be causing your fuel to bleed back into the line/tank when shut down. check your gas cap too for vent.