The Ford Barn

bart78 · 03-24-2015, 06:32 AM

The inside is perfect. The outside is rusty because it sat unpaired for 30 years. There have been plenty of engines that have had rusty outsides run just fine.

Joe K · 03-24-2015, 07:39 AM

When I was a young buck (wasn't that yesterday?) I cleaned and carefully painted my Model A engine before rebuilding. The book said "ford engine green" so I went downstairs and got some Rustoleum in green color and gave it a coat.

The engine went off to the rebuilder and after a while I got it all together - and it ran the truck for a couple of years.

Fast forward to a subsequent life situation where I had the time and the space to restore the truck, I discovered the error of my ways and decided to "do it right" and repaint the engine - and do that right too.

EVERYTHING came apart. I mean everything. And checked.

To remove the paint I carefully masked off the babbitt and running surfaces (cam shaft, cylinder bores, machined gasket surfaces) and brought the block into work where they had a glass bead machine.

Yes, I was concerned about glass beads floating around in my engine.

After blasting and re-painting, I then used my newly purchased parts washer to wash the block out - and did it again with fresh solvent. Lots of little test tube brushes and pipe-cleaners to clean out all the oil ports and threaded bolt holes.

Reassembled, the engine is fine and the conversion to correct color pleases me.

I tell you this to indicate that it IS possible to do this this way - but it is a LOT of work. And there is some risk on leaving some grit or doing some damage along the way.

Better though had it been done the right way in the first place. The next engine (gordon smith compressor) I took the hint.

Joe K

03-24-2015, 06:32 AM	#1
bart78 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Stephenville tx Posts: 1,019	Re: Citric acid rust remover The inside is perfect. The outside is rusty because it sat unpaired for 30 years. There have been plenty of engines that have had rusty outsides run just fine.

03-24-2015, 07:39 AM	#2
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,607	Re: Citric acid rust remover When I was a young buck (wasn't that yesterday?) I cleaned and carefully painted my Model A engine before rebuilding. The book said "ford engine green" so I went downstairs and got some Rustoleum in green color and gave it a coat. The engine went off to the rebuilder and after a while I got it all together - and it ran the truck for a couple of years. Fast forward to a subsequent life situation where I had the time and the space to restore the truck, I discovered the error of my ways and decided to "do it right" and repaint the engine - and do that right too. EVERYTHING came apart. I mean everything. And checked. To remove the paint I carefully masked off the babbitt and running surfaces (cam shaft, cylinder bores, machined gasket surfaces) and brought the block into work where they had a glass bead machine. Yes, I was concerned about glass beads floating around in my engine. After blasting and re-painting, I then used my newly purchased parts washer to wash the block out - and did it again with fresh solvent. Lots of little test tube brushes and pipe-cleaners to clean out all the oil ports and threaded bolt holes. Reassembled, the engine is fine and the conversion to correct color pleases me. I tell you this to indicate that it IS possible to do this this way - but it is a LOT of work. And there is some risk on leaving some grit or doing some damage along the way. Better though had it been done the right way in the first place. The next engine (gordon smith compressor) I took the hint. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.