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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Johnstown, PA.
Posts: 137
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Horn somtimes blows when the wheel is turned. Where would the problem likely be?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wauconda, IL
Posts: 3,604
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Did the problem just start? What did you do or change, start there then check the bottom of the light bail, remove and make sure the horn rod is all the way in and the little clip is on it and the light bail is on correct...
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A7191-Sport Coupe 29 Roadster 29-Town Sedan 29-Original Special Coupe |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Johnstown, PA.
Posts: 137
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This is my first Model A and it came with this problem. The switch on the bottom of the column looked like something I shouldn't take apart.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 2,011
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I am currently fixing the same problem. What happend on mine was the small insulator piece at the end of the horn rod cracked allowing the soldered end of the wire to touch and ground against the side of the light switch housing.
You will need to unclip the wire bail that holds the light switch to the end of the steering collumn. This will allow you to pull the entire light switch housing away from the end of the collumn. At the end of the collumn you will then see a two pronged piece of metal that fits into slots in the light switch you just removed. That two pronged piece will have to be removed. To remove it have someone sit in the car and hold the light/horn switch from being pushed out while you push the two pronged piece up towards the steering box exposing a small c clip that you can remove with a needle nosed pliers. Once you get the c clip removed you can remove the pronged piece and the spring that gives it tension. After that the rod can be pulled up and out of the steering column. Well.... that is if you have enough room to get the horn rod out of the steering column without hitting the roof. If not enough room to get it out you will need to pull the steering column. If the insulator piece is bad you will need to order a kit for minimal $'s from one of the vendors to repair it. Please remember to use as little heat as possible when re-soldering the wire at the end as too much heat can melt the insulator piece. If you don't have someone to help hold the horn rod in place while you remove the clip you can use a c-clamp to hold the rod against the steering wheel while you remove the two pronged piece.
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Dave / Lincoln Nebraska |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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A wood yardstick works to hold the horn rod in the steering wheel, if you don't have a helper.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Johnstown, PA.
Posts: 137
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: La Mesa Ca
Posts: 1,273
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With that symptom, another problem is the horn contact touches the hole in the upper plate. When you undo the bail, slide light switch off, twist the top and bottom halves to take apart. The wire contact plate in the bottom half has a center spring contact protruding above the circle of others, this is the horn contact, it sometimes rubs against the hole in the upper contact plate and makes the horn honk while turning the wheel. The fix is to put a piece of heat shrink tubing around the spring & contact leaving the surface of the contact clear to touch the end of the horn rod.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Bend Or.
Posts: 1,080
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The problem is a loose nut behind the wheel. (Sorry, Had Too.)
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Bill Worden 1929 Roadster 1929 Briggs Town Sedan 1930 Closed Cab pickup 1931 Coupe 2 Smith Motor Compressors 1951 Ford F1 High Desert Model A's |
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#9 |
Senior Member
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The way I fix this problem is to use a short piece of a large plastic soda straw and slip it over the bottom part of the horn rod. That will keep the contact from touching any ground. I thin Berger King straws are big.
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