|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
11-04-2014, 07:52 PM | #21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 1,920
|
Re: saving the patina
Ed if your wood is as aged as mine is steel wool would not be a good option. I used a small fine wire wood brush and swept the dirt out of the grain. If yours is pretty smooth and just needs the varnish smoothed out then steel wool probably would work fine. As long as you don't go over 50% with the lindseed oil it will dry in a few days and not be sticky. Probably the thing I like least about the mix is the turpentine smell. It will fade in a few days.
Al - I liked the spoke wheels much better too. Since my truck was a very early 29 having the wire spoke wheels was still correct so I switched out. Still have the original set of flat spoke wheels if I ever want to change the look. And yes the wood took quite a bit of time repair and clean. It was a good winter project.
__________________
Dave / Lincoln Nebraska |
11-05-2014, 01:44 PM | #22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Daytona Beach, Fl & Spencer, W. Va,
Posts: 4,442
|
Re: saving the patina
I agree with "34Fordtk". Use GIBBS OIL. You will, probably have to order it on line.
This is what the antique motorcycle guys use on the old barnfind motorcycles. It will bring out paint that you didn't know you had. It hides some rust, too. WD40 will give you a preview of what it will look like, but GIBBS OIL will look better and last longer. WD40 also has silicone it it, which is hard to get rid of, if you want to paint. MIKE (mikeburch) Last edited by FL&WVMIKE; 03-16-2015 at 10:40 AM. |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
11-05-2014, 01:49 PM | #23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,239
|
Re: saving the patina
Gibbs oil. I'll take a picture of my '28 Roadster that still has 80% of the original paint. The other 20% is a new to car, but like new gas tank and the lower cowl that got rusty when it was separated from the car.
|
03-15-2015, 02:23 PM | #24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 841
|
Re: saving the patina
I enjoyed reading all the good suggestions on products to preserve/enhance the patina--I decided to try 1crosscut's suggestion for the Johnson's Paste Wax as I was hoping for a little shine--It was mainly the tops of the front fenders I was working on as the original paint on the remainder of the car shined up real well--I was delighted with the results the paste wax gave me--It gave a nice satin sheen to the fenders--So nice to have a group of enthusiasts with so much knowledge and willing to share with others--Thanks to all of you--
Don |
03-15-2015, 03:59 PM | #25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 160
|
Re: saving the patina
Ditto on the Gibbs Brand. I know of a hot rod coupe that was left in bare metal treated with Gibbs Brand, driven to Bonneville and back, and hasn't shown rust in several years.
|
03-15-2015, 05:01 PM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 986
|
Re: saving the patina
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
__________________
Alan 1929 Special Coupe 1941 Pick-Up 1955 Victoria |
03-15-2015, 07:24 PM | #27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 382
|
Re: saving the patina
What about satin clearcoat in a rattle can ? You can always sand it off if you decide to paint it later
|
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|