The Ford Barn

larrys40 · 01-20-2015, 05:55 PM

The condenser by Ford spec for the documentation I have should be .20-.25 Microfarads,
In testing a condenser you test for Capacitance, leakage, and resistance. I use an early Ford heyer test set which test for all 3 of these. I would NOT recommend the test stated in a post above to determine a condenser good or not.

As Tom & Mitch said If the terminal is turning it is bad, I would recommend the "Short Proof" condenser and it will probably be the last one you will buy. If you have or know how to use a digital voltmeter I would check the voltage at your coil ( iginition switch off) terminals , should both be 6V+, terminal box studs ( should both be same voltage). If the voltage is lower on one than the other you have a bad connection inside the terminal box or back of the ammeter. If that is good turn on the ignition and with the points open check the voltage at the points, it should be about the same.
If significantly lower you have a bad connection somewhere in the ignition cable or distributor plates.
I gave a seminar last year at the MARC Membership meet on the "voltmeter is the best tool in your toolbox" . When you're having a no start problem it truly is.
If you don
If you don't have one go buy ( or tell your wife you have to have an early birthday present) a decent inexpensive one and start checking voltage to learn and get acquanted. You will always be glad you have it as a tool.

Best of luck... keep the forum posted.
Larry Shepard

edmondclinton · 01-20-2015, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larrys40

The condenser by Ford spec for the documentation I have should be .20-.25 Microfarads,
In testing a condenser you test for Capacitance, leakage, and resistance. I use an early Ford heyer test set which test for all 3 of these. I would NOT recommend the test stated in a post above to determine a condenser good or not.

Larry Shepard

Sorry, I disagree. Ford's original spec was .3 microfarads. Also I said that when charging up a condenser and discharging on its case, one may "assume" that the condenser is OK. I didn't say it was guaranteed.

The above method is something that almost any Model Aer can do and requires no test equipment.

Using my equipment I measure condenser capacity and then insulation resistance measured between the condenser center and the case.

The following link shows an original letter from Ford Motor Co. discussing the rating of the Model A condenser.

www.fordgarage.com/pages/condensercapacitance.htm

George Miller · 01-20-2015, 07:32 PM

By the way your condenser probably has to long of a screw and it is bottom out. That is why you can turn it. Check that before you have the same thing happen to your new one.

01-20-2015, 05:55 PM	#1
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 2,032	Re: Still won't start The condenser by Ford spec for the documentation I have should be .20-.25 Microfarads, In testing a condenser you test for Capacitance, leakage, and resistance. I use an early Ford heyer test set which test for all 3 of these. I would NOT recommend the test stated in a post above to determine a condenser good or not. As Tom & Mitch said If the terminal is turning it is bad, I would recommend the "Short Proof" condenser and it will probably be the last one you will buy. If you have or know how to use a digital voltmeter I would check the voltage at your coil ( iginition switch off) terminals , should both be 6V+, terminal box studs ( should both be same voltage). If the voltage is lower on one than the other you have a bad connection inside the terminal box or back of the ammeter. If that is good turn on the ignition and with the points open check the voltage at the points, it should be about the same. If significantly lower you have a bad connection somewhere in the ignition cable or distributor plates. I gave a seminar last year at the MARC Membership meet on the "voltmeter is the best tool in your toolbox" . When you're having a no start problem it truly is. If you don If you don't have one go buy ( or tell your wife you have to have an early birthday present) a decent inexpensive one and start checking voltage to learn and get acquanted. You will always be glad you have it as a tool. Best of luck... keep the forum posted. Larry Shepard Last edited by larrys40; 01-20-2015 at 06:01 PM.

01-20-2015, 07:32 PM	#3
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Still won't start By the way your condenser probably has to long of a screw and it is bottom out. That is why you can turn it. Check that before you have the same thing happen to your new one.