The Ford Barn

Dbbc · 01-19-2015, 05:50 PM

To answer some of the questios, the rotor does turn, I get a spark from the distributor cap to the head nut. I took the copper wire off the spark plug (new spark plugs, champion w16) and I have spark on 2,3,4 but not on one ( closest to radiator)

I will order a condensor and both plates in the distributor. By the way the copper end of the condensor where the screws that holds it, spins. Probably should't but I am not sure if it is defective. Should I use a upper plate with the modern condensor?

Lastly what would cause the negative side off the coil to be hot when the point are closed and the ignition on?

edmondclinton · 01-19-2015, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dbbc

To answer some of the questios, the rotor does turn, I get a spark from the distributor cap to the head nut. I took the copper wire off the spark plug (new spark plugs, champion w16) and I have spark on 2,3,4 but not on one ( closest to radiator)

I will order a condensor and both plates in the distributor. By the way the copper end of the condensor where the screws that holds it, spins. Probably should't but I am not sure if it is defective. Should I use a upper plate with the modern condensor?

Lastly what would cause the negative side off the coil to be hot when the point are closed and the ignition on?

Do you get a consistent spark from the coil wire to a head nut every time your work the points? If so what does it look like?

George Miller · 01-19-2015, 06:21 PM

By the way the copper end of the condensor where the screws that holds it, spins.

That is not a good thing, you need to replace it. But if you get a good blue spark on 2,3,4 you have points that are not opening on one cylinder, or you got a bad dist body. Need to check play in dist shaft, make sure the points are opening on all 4 cam positions.

Dbbc · 01-19-2015, 06:42 PM

I will check if the point open on all 4 side of the cam. I did not check I assumed that all 4 sides of the cam should be the same. By the way the shaft does not have any side to side play.
Also I was wondering how snug should the rotor fit. Mine is pretty wobbly and I wonder if it is not rotating properly and does not make a spark with the contact for cylinder #1

AL in NY · 01-19-2015, 06:58 PM

How snuggly does the distributor body fit on the distributor? Does it move around? If it fits snug, check the gap between the rotor and the metal contacts inside the distributor body. That gap should be pretty much the same on all four contacts. Also check continuity between the inner contacts and the outer(top) contacts to make sure you have a short/very very low resistance.

George Miller · 01-19-2015, 07:34 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dbbc

I will check if the point open on all 4 side of the cam. I did not check I assumed that all 4 sides of the cam should be the same. By the way the shaft does not have any side to side play.
Also I was wondering how snug should the rotor fit. Mine is pretty wobbly and I wonder if it is not rotating properly and does not make a spark with the contact for cylinder #1

No it should not be loose on the shaft. Just a good slip fit. You might put the body on and check the gap between rotor and cap in all 4 positions. Should be around .025 .

Tom Wesenberg · 01-19-2015, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dbbc

To answer some of the questios, the rotor does turn, I get a spark from the distributor cap to the head nut. I took the copper wire off the spark plug (new spark plugs, champion w16) and I have spark on 2,3,4 but not on one ( closest to radiator)

I will order a condensor and both plates in the distributor. By the way the copper end of the condensor where the screws that holds it, spins. Probably should't but I am not sure if it is defective. Should I use a upper plate with the modern condensor?

Lastly what would cause the negative side off the coil to be hot when the point are closed and the ignition on?

The condenser is shot if the terminal spins. Be sure to use the insulating washer under the head of the terminal screw, or the screw may bottom out and turn the terminal instead of tightening on the strap.

When the points are closed and the key is on, you have about 4 amps going through the coil and that will heat it up. If it still heats up with the points open or the key off, then you have a problem, such as the ignition switch terminal touching the gas tank.

Mitch//pa · 01-19-2015, 10:26 PM

the condenser screw should not spin so take toms advice and change it and use the fiber washer under the screw head...

so you say no spark to #1 ok that should not be but with having spark to 2,3,4
the engine should still run but with a miss.... did you try bringing it to TDC with the timing pin and make sure your rotor is pointing to #1? maybe the dist cam slipped position or there is a timing gear issue and it jumped.
maybe the spark is crossfiring in the dist body
some food for thought

01-19-2015, 06:21 PM	#3
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Still won't start By the way the copper end of the condensor where the screws that holds it, spins. That is not a good thing, you need to replace it. But if you get a good blue spark on 2,3,4 you have points that are not opening on one cylinder, or you got a bad dist body. Need to check play in dist shaft, make sure the points are opening on all 4 cam positions.

01-19-2015, 06:42 PM	#4
Dbbc Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Honolulu Posts: 116	Re: Still won't start I will check if the point open on all 4 side of the cam. I did not check I assumed that all 4 sides of the cam should be the same. By the way the shaft does not have any side to side play. Also I was wondering how snug should the rotor fit. Mine is pretty wobbly and I wonder if it is not rotating properly and does not make a spark with the contact for cylinder #1

01-19-2015, 06:58 PM	#5
AL in NY Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Upstate New York Posts: 1,209	Re: Still won't start How snuggly does the distributor body fit on the distributor? Does it move around? If it fits snug, check the gap between the rotor and the metal contacts inside the distributor body. That gap should be pretty much the same on all four contacts. Also check continuity between the inner contacts and the outer(top) contacts to make sure you have a short/very very low resistance. __________________ AL in NY

01-19-2015, 10:26 PM	#8
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Still won't start the condenser screw should not spin so take toms advice and change it and use the fiber washer under the screw head... so you say no spark to #1 ok that should not be but with having spark to 2,3,4 the engine should still run but with a miss.... did you try bringing it to TDC with the timing pin and make sure your rotor is pointing to #1? maybe the dist cam slipped position or there is a timing gear issue and it jumped. maybe the spark is crossfiring in the dist body some food for thought Last edited by Mitch//pa; 01-19-2015 at 11:05 PM.

01-19-2015, 05:50 PM	#1
Dbbc Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Honolulu Posts: 116	Re: Still won't start To answer some of the questios, the rotor does turn, I get a spark from the distributor cap to the head nut. I took the copper wire off the spark plug (new spark plugs, champion w16) and I have spark on 2,3,4 but not on one ( closest to radiator) I will order a condensor and both plates in the distributor. By the way the copper end of the condensor where the screws that holds it, spins. Probably should't but I am not sure if it is defective. Should I use a upper plate with the modern condensor? Lastly what would cause the negative side off the coil to be hot when the point are closed and the ignition on?