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Old 01-13-2015, 08:29 PM   #1
700rpm
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Default Re: 1930 CCPU cab re-assembly

Nice work. I really admire a craftsman who does nice work... Especially in an area where I am completely clueless.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:48 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1930 CCPU cab re-assembly

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Originally Posted by 700rpm View Post
Nice work. I really admire a craftsman who does nice work... Especially in an area where I am completely clueless.
Thanks 700rpm.
It's a learning experience and i'm thankful for the barn and the many people on here that share their knowledge. I would be totally lost with out you guys!
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Old 01-22-2015, 04:35 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1930 CCPU cab re-assembly

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Originally Posted by 700rpm View Post
Nice work. I really admire a craftsman who does nice work... Especially in an area where I am completely clueless.
x2!! Love the remnants of the sign work on that door. Would look great preserved!
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:11 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1930 CCPU cab re-assembly

Since all i'm doing right now is stripping paint off the cowl, i thought i'd back-up a little bit and show you guys what i did to fix the door hinges and door jambs. Maybe it will help someone.

My problem was two-fold.
On the original cowl, someone had tried to remove the hinge screws and ended up twisting some of them off. Then they tried drilling them out of the hinge and messed up the threads and holes.

Also, the replacement cowl i got had the hinge screws burned out of the cowl with a torch. The inner structure was mostly fine, but the outer skin was just blobs of melted metal around the screw holes.

Using the few "good" holes from each hinge, i managed to make a fixture with the correct hole placement. Then, after welding-up the bad holes and grinding everything flush, I used the fixture as a drill guide and drilled new holes. The fixture is just some scrap i had laying around.

Then onto the torched cowl. I ground off all of the blobs of metal around each screw hole until it was flush with the surrounding metal. I used a solid copper rod with a slight taper and forced it into each hole in the inner structure. After posititioning the rod, i used my mig and filled in around it. Since weld doesn't stick to copper, i had a nice round hole left after removing the rod. I ground everything flush and used a countersink bit to clean up the hole.

I apologize for not taking any "before" pictures. You can still see the jagged edges in the cowl holes where my weld didn't quite reach.
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