Trans Lube

[Jerry Kzoo]

Happy New Year early to everyone here!!

I was working on a friends car yesterday and the transmission would shift VERY hard when cold. It was about 35* F yesterday. He has just purchased this car and we are fixing a couple of small things on it. When I checked the "fluid" level it was down a little from the threads on the plug. I stuck my finger in it and the "fluid" felt solid(thicker than molasses). It is very black in color, but was not that color from being dirty. I pulled the bottom plug and waited 10 minutes, but nothing came out. We went out for a drive to warm it up some and when we came back we pulled the plug and some of it slowly came out. It was very sticky and still thick even warmed up. I have no idea what original trans fluid was or looked like, but with our Michigan climate this seemed too thick.

I have learned so much from everyone here over the years and really appreciate all of your help and knowledge.

Jerry

[Kurt in NJ]

At that temperature the original trans fluid could be picked up with a fork, I usually drive 500 feet or so in 1st before I try to shift out of first in freezing temperatures, if you read the owners instruction book it will tell you that you can add some kerosene to thin the oil for cold temperatures---but I found that the short run in first is enough to ease the first shift

[eagle]

Take a heat lamp and get the transmission case good and warm, get that out and then add Lucas oil stabilizer. After running a few months change it again and you should be good.

[Patrick L.]

Once most of the oil is out you could flush/clean the inside with diesel or kerosene if you feel like removing the top. If not, then changing the oil a couple times should be fine.
For the cold weather you could try using some 140 wgt. [ 600W is anywhere from 140-250 wgt]. If the 140 seems too heavy once warm, 90 could be tried.
As long as you stick with a good gear oil you won't hurt it.

[Purdy Swoft]

I've never had a problem with 90 weight .

[eagle]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

In my trials the Lucas gives me a smoother transmission feel and less heat fade than std gear oil. Considerably less gear noise too. Just my two cents.

[raprice22]

I dunno, I've been using the 600W that I buy from Bratton's and it seems to work fine.
Rog

[Purdy Swoft]

Brattons or Snyders 600w gear oil are both good. Its not nearly as critical as many think it is. I guess what ever makes a person happy .

[mshmodela]

Good post, I've been driving my 31' Tudor this month. Lowest was 30F but my car is in my attached garage which is about 40F... At that temp, I've seen not real difference in shifting... I did replace my transmission with 600W from Snyders this past spring. So far my car runs just the same as it did when I was 90F... For now

[RonC]

This is one modern equivalent http://www.kellerheartt.com/product-...shopping_feeds

[1931 flamingo]

A lot cheaper to buy the 600w from the vendors. JMO
Paul in CT

[mshmodela]

Kurt in NJ,

Took my 31' Tudor for a drive this afternoon (24F). I drove it slow for about 500ft (just at idle in 1st...) no issues shifting wise...

Thanks

[Purdy Swoft]

[QUOTE=1931 flamingo;1007549]A lot cheaper to buy the 600w from the vendors. JMO

Paul in CT[/QUOT

And the 90 weight at Walmart is even cheaper and does the job quiet well .

[Terry, NJ]

I had a Ford 8 N tractor that was full of goop like you describe. After draining all that would flow, I used a propane torch to loosen up the rest. I'd put some kerosene in there, Jack up one rear wheel and either start the car, put it in gear or turn the rear wheel and let it turn over at idle for a few minutes, Then drain it. Model A s don't need Hypoid gear lube. But you can run pretty much any gear lube from the recommended 600 w to straight STP. The lubricant is supposed to do 3 things;
#1 Lubricate the gears,#2 Stay in the transmission and not leak out . #3 Slow down the gears for shifting. For starters, I'd go with the 600 w. This is NOT the weight of the oil, It's just a name.
Terry

[JohnLaVoy]

Lubriplate SPO277 I think is what is recommended for cold weather. It is designed for straight cut gears, doesn't foam and works very well. They have three grades the SPO277 is recommended for cold climate SPO288 for moderate and SPO299 for high temperatures.

[ian Simpson]

Although I do not drive my 1928 Tudor in winter (I am a real coward,) I can relate to the problem. Our 1969 Lotus Europa was our year-round daily-driver for over eight years, and would not shift out of first for several miles when the temperature hit -30 or below. Fixed the problem by bolting up a VW-type external oil pan heater to the transmission. The transmission was a transaxle that ran 90W oil. In your relatively mild temperatures you might try placing a trouble light close to the transmission overnight.

I would not consider using kerosene or anything similar to thin the oil. Kerosene is not a lubricant and will wash oil from bearings. Years ago we used kerosene in our parts washer as it was cheaper and easier to obtain than many alternatives. Kerosene is such an efficient degreaser that after washing parts we made sure they were covered with clean oil or grease to avoid corrosion.

Ian